There’s living like royalty, and then there’s living like Indian royalty. Enter through arched doorways showered by velvety rose petals while folk musicians serenade you, and amble through manicured lawns as horses are led for their morning feed from the nearby stables.
While India ceased to recognize its many princely states over 50 years ago, across the country these families firmly hold on to their opulent residences. In the last few decades, many have chosen to repurpose them into heritage hotels that come with glimpses of grandeur and grace from a bygone era, either run by the scions of these families or leased out to hotel chains.
Here’s our round-up of India’s most luxurious palace hotels.
1. Taj Rambagh Palace, Jaipur, Rajasthan
Best for a taste of Rajasthani culture
In a state practically littered with palace hotels, this one stands out as the best of them all. Built as a modest palace in 1835, it was upgraded to a lavish hunting lodge and royal guesthouse for Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II (one of Jaipur’s last rulers) almost a century later, before turning into one of India’s most popular and luxurious hotels – think high ceilings, carved furniture, marble fountains, Mughal gardens and oil paintings of Rajasthan’s old rulers and court scenes. Start your day with the sound of peacock calls and end your day with dinner inside a restored steam carriage. For a more formal meal, there is the baroque-themed Suvarna Mahal restaurant, where dishes from erstwhile princely states like Hyderabad and Lucknow are served on gold-plated tableware.
2. Taj Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad, Telangana
Best for decadent luxury
A stay at the Taj Falaknuma Palace is your chance to fulfill every royal fantasy you may have had – from a ride on a horse-drawn carriage to breakfast service from a personal butler. This late 19th-century home of the Nizam of Hyderabad, known for his eclectic collection of artifacts from around the world, is perched on a hill offering distant views of the city. From Venetian chandeliers on the high ceilings and statues from Greek mythology on the grand marble staircase, photos of British Viceroys and Governor Generals, and a library with over 5000 rare and precious books, the hotel itself serves as a museum.
3. Ahilya Fort Hotel, Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh
Best for heritage and history
This 18th-century sandstone fort was once the stronghold of warrior queen Ahilyabai Holkar, from where she ruled the Maheshwar kingdom between 1765 to 1796. It is now a stylish heritage hotel overlooking the River Narmada, with 19 rooms spread across six buildings connected by inner courtyards and secret gardens. Meals are served at various places within the property, including the garden and the mandap (porch) with river views. Be sure to go shopping for gossamer Maheshwari saris woven by local women at the nearby non-profit Rehwa Society, supported by the family.
4. LaLiT Grand Palace, Srinagar, Kashmir
Best to kick back and unwind
Against the backdrop of the imposing Zabarwan mountains, with stunning vistas of Dal Lake, where wooden boats - shikara - ply up and down, the LaLiT Grand Palace hotel began life as Maharaja Pratap Singh’s residence in 1910. The rooms are dotted with exquisite handwoven Kashmiri carpets and fireplaces to keep cozy during even the coldest winter nights. For the ultimate indulgence, stay at the opulent Maharaja Suite, which comes with four-poster beds, a dressing table and a writing desk all made of local deodar wood.
5. Stok Palace Heritage Hotel, Leh, Ladakh
Best for views of snow capped mountains
Stok Palace has been the house of the Namgyal dynasty since 1820, with the present-day descendant Jigmed Namgyal continuing to live in a separate wing. The palace hotel serves as a wonderful showcase of provincial Ladakhi architecture, arts and crafts, many of which are on display within the tiny palace museum: look out for the stone-studded peraks (heavy headgear worn by Ladakhi women of high status) and rare thangkas (religous scroll paintings). Plus, there is a resident monk who will guide you through Buddhist prayers at the Lhakchung temple on the upper level and happily chat with you about all things spiritual. The rooms are furnished in warm golds, reds and purples contrasting with the often-freezing temperatures outside, and are linked through a maze of low doorways and tiny courtyards.
6. Chittoor Kottaram, Ernakulam, Kerala
Best for backwater cruises and ayurveda massages
The Raja of Cochin (modern-day Kochi) built this modest palace on the banks of the Periyar River as a space to spend time in quiet introspection and prayer. The family deity still resides in the Chittoor temple close to the palace, which is a nod to vernacular architecture of solid wooden pillars and sloping red-tiled roofs. Chittoor Kottaram is an exclusive stay with only three bedrooms and a personal caretaker and chef to serve guests. After an Ayurvedic massage in the comfort of your room, you can choose to watch a private Kathakali dance performance or go on a backwater cruise to see the sunset.
7. Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur, Rajasthan
Best for a royal museum experience
This golden sandstone palace merges magnificently into the desert landscape. Legend has it that Maharaja Umaid Singh of Jodhpur ordered the construction of this lavish Indo-Saracenic art deco style palace to provide employment (and income) to his people during a terrible famine in the late 1920s. There is a daily guided tour of the palace and museum for in-house guests at 5pm, which gives you a chance to see how the aristrocracy lived, surrounded by exquisite porcelain wares, antique clocks and hunting trophies, all on display at the museum. And even if you are not staying here, it is worth a visit, if only to gawk at the gleaming marble floors or to try the chef’s tasting menu at Risala, the hotel’s restaurant that serves regional cuisine.
8. Belgadia Palace, Mayurbhanj, Odisha
Best for local arts and crafts
Belgadia Palace, a four-drive from Kolkata (Calcutta), is worlds removed from the crowds and chaos of the metropolis. This Victorian-style palace and regal guesthouse dating back to 1804 has been meticulously repurposed into a welcoming space by sisters Mrinalika and Akshita Bhanj Deo, 48th-generation scions of the Bhanj dynasty, who have managed to find a place for vintage furniture and upholstery from the original home. Each of the rooms is painted in specific color themes and has direct views of the garden. The sisters are continuing their family’s work of patronizing and promoting art and culture from the Mayurbhanj region, particularly dokra metal work and chaau martial arts dance form, with guests having a chance to watch these artists at the palace or with a visit to their workshops.
9. Sawantwadi Palace Art Boutique Hotel, Sawantwadi, Maharashtra
Best for art with a dash of gourmet food
Located in Sawantwadi, just north of Goa, this palace was built in 1755 by Khem Sawant III of the ruling Bhonsle dynasty, with the queens’ palace recently converted into a warm and welcoming boutique art hotel. Your hosts, Prince Lakham Khem Bhonsle and his wife Shraddha Bhonsle are both accomplished chefs (who trained at the Culinary Institute of America, New York) and take pride in showcasing local art, culture and food to guests. Each room is decorated with Ganjifa art pieces – a painting form brought from Persia to India by the Mughals, and being revived by this family – and handcrafted furniture belonging to the original palace.
10. Jehan Numa Palace Hotel, Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh
Best base to visit tiger forests and ancient monuments
A variety of architectural styles – British colonial, Italian renaissance and classical Greek – come together elegantly in this erstwhile royal guesthouse on the gentle slopes of Shamla hills. The highlight of this stay is the museum on the walls of the central lobby and corridors, where sepia tinted photographs of the royal families and visiting dignitaries and faded hand-written letters serve as reminders of the legacy of the bold begums of Bhopal, the four consecutive women rulers known for their social reforms. Don’t miss the chance to taste lost recipes, such as murg rezala (chicken cooked with fresh green herbs like coriander) and mutton filfora (coarse goat mince cooked with whole spices) from the family kitchen, that have been revived and recreated for the General’s Table dining experience.