Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon as some still call it, is the largest city in Vietnam and the country’s economic capital. Though it does not boast literal millennia of history and culture like the capital Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City is still unquestionably the metropolis of the South. This no-less-historied city offers a captivating blend of old-world charm and contemporary vibrancy.
Built atop the ruins of the older Quy citadel and historically merging two sister cities together (Saigon and Cholon, or Chinatown) under French colonial rule, modern Saigon is a captivating patchwork of frenetic sleepless urbanized districts, quietly elegant French-era architecture, quirky alleyway labyrinths, and laid-back mini-sized suburban neighborhoods sandwiched between glistening glass-plated skyscrapers.
The city is separated into 16 inner districts, one satellite city, and five outer districts, and spreads over an area of 2095 sq km (809 sq miles). Due to the prevalence of cheap public transportation, exploring the entirety of Ho Chi Minh City is possible for those with time and enthusiasm. Get those feet wandering into one area at a time with our guide to HCMC’s best neighborhoods.
1. Bến Thành, Đồng Khởi – District 1
Best for first-time visitors and nightlife
There’s a popular turn-of-the-century Saigonese saying: “Ăn quận 5, nằm quận 3, la cà quận 1” meaning, “eat in District 5, sleep in District 3, party in District 1.”
District 1 lies at the center of Ho Chi Minh City, and as the old saying goes, it is where all the fun things in the city take place. Within it is Ben Thanh Market, an Indochine-style bazaar that has been the icon of Ho Chi Minh City for 112 years and counting. The market has borne witness to the city’s rise and fall and rise, and is a must-visit for anyone looking to experience vibrant street life while shopping for local goods.
Just five minutes’ walk from Ben Thanh Southern Gate is Ð Dong Khoi, a narrow street lined with luxury boutiques, high-end restaurants, hip bars and lounges, private art galleries, and historic sites such as Notre Dame Cathedral and the Opera House.
One turn away from Ð Dong Khoi and branching off of Le Thanh Ton is Nguyen Hue Walking Street. This broad, tree-lined pedestrian boulevard is the favorite gathering spot for Saigonese youths, especially during the weekends when the city regularly holds free public events and musical performances. Even during slightly slower weekdays, Nguyen Hue still boasts eclectic street performances, light displays and lively crowds.
At the end of Nguyen Hue Walking Street is the Dragon Wharf, yet another historic site that has since become a cultural hot spot for city youths. The Wharf is home to the Ho Chi Minh Museum and is flanked by various riverside cafes, floating restaurants, and mini-parks where pedestrians can enjoy a view of the Saigon River and District 2 on the other side.
Located near Bitexco Tower, Rice Field Restaurant is a recent addition to the Michelin List, specializing in homecooked Vietnamese food.
2. District 3
Best for culture, history and authentic local experiences
Unlike the pulsing, frantic, restless District 1, District 3 offers a far more laid-back and authentic experience. As the saying goes, Saigonese sleep in District 3, or rather, this is where they live. Historically, District 3, with its astonishingly diverse architectural styles, was the designated residential zone for Saigonese elites in the early 1900s. Many Vietnamese luminaries lived here at the turn of the century, such as the legendary late musician Trinh Cong Son, whose music is emblematic of wartime Vietnam, and the opera performer Bach Tuyet, who is known as the jewel of traditional Vietnamese Opera.
Right next to District 1, District 3 offers almost every comfort without the premium prices or the noise. Its roads are large, green and well-maintained, and at only 4.9 sq km (1.9 sq miles), it is begging to be explored on foot. The neighborhood is positively littered with national cultural heritage sites. Stop by the Hidden Weapon Bunker of Vietcong Special Forces. The tiny little house at 171E Cach Mang Thang 8 hides the entrance to the secret bunker where Saigon Special Forces stored their weapons for the assault on the Independence Palace in 1968. Look out for 180 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, also known as the oldest surviving building of Ho Chi Minh City. This humble, tiled house, built under the order of Emperor Nguyen Anh in 1790, 12 years before his coronation, was witness to the writing of Nguyen Anh’s National Entreating letter, which led to the signing of the Versailles Treaty of 1787 between Vietnam and France. As you pass Turtle Lake Roundabout, a short walk from Notre Dame, spare a thought for the bronze turtle that gave the roundabout its name. It was bombed in 1976 and its remains were stolen, which became the scandal of the year.
Tucked away in alley 288 on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, 80-year-old Pho Dau is a historical and culinary must-visit. This unassuming little shop was founded by Mrs Dau, a war immigrant from Nam Dinh province, the birthplace of pho. The pho served here is unapologetically faithful to the original flavor of the national food, not at all like most other pho diners you may find in the city.
3. Chợ Lớn (Chinatown) – Districts 5, 10 and 11
Best for food and markets
Out of all the neighborhoods in the city, Cholon feels the least like it belongs in Ho Chi Minh City, or even Vietnam for that matter. As you wander its winding, crowded streets, don’t be surprised to catch plenty of sign boards in traditional Hanzi or hear people yelling at each other in heavily accented Cantonese. That is because Cholon used to be its own distinct city some three centuries ago before merging with Saigon to become the Ho Chi Minh City of today.
The district is dusty, crowded, and rundown, owing to some of the country’s strictest building construction and maintenance laws, all in the name of preserving its cultural heritage. Getting a permit to fix up your private residence in the jurisdiction of Cholon is a pain and a half, doubly so if your property is categorized as part of the area’s ethnic heritage. But don’t let its worn-and-weathered appearance deter you, for this area of the city is famous for the wealth of its culture, history and to-die-for cuisine.
The food in Cholon has a richness and variety unrivaled by any other part of the city. This is due to the unique demographics of the area, which is composed mainly of Teochew and Hokkienese immigrants from 17th-century China, with a smattering of other ethnicities. The diverse demographic makeup, sheer population density, and shared history eventually created an extraordinary food scene. The rather obvious result is that the many winding alleys and dusty streets of Cholon are teeming with fantastic local eats with a longer history than their deceptively humble appearances might suggest. Expect to taste incredible flavors served out of hole-in-the-wall joints here.
Binh Tay Market is the centerpiece, offering everything from fresh produce to intricate handicrafts. Surrounding the market is a plethora of temples and pagodas, including Thien Hau Temple, which is dedicated to a major sea goddess. From there on, let your feet and nose guide you.
For affordable à la carte home cuisine, try Dong Nguyen Chicken Rice. This family-owned restaurant has been around since 1945 and is known for its slow-cooked chicken soup and chicken rice. Another 80-year-old family-run diner is Truyen Ky, which specializes in Hokkiense cuisine and hasn’t changed its menu in at least three decades. Even more so than Dong Nguyen, it looks less like a proper diner and more like somebody’s family kitchen. The menu is extensive and has no listed prices whatsoever.
4. Thảo Điền – District 2
Best for a friendly community vibe
One of the younger areas, District 2, is now known as the city’s most international neighborhood, owing to its popularity with young expats, digital nomads and staycationers. The riverside area of Thảo Điền boasts its own foodie walking street on top of a strip of waterfront pubs, bars and diners serving international food.
Going deeper into Thảo Điền and away from the riverfront, travelers will find plentiful chic cafes, organic food stores, vegan diners and independent boutiques. Art lovers will appreciate the local galleries and creative spaces that host regular exhibitions and workshops. Soma Saigon Cafe, an art cafe and community space, is a favorite with expats and locals, hosting stand-up comedy, indie movie nights, and weekend art and craft markets. Take a wander down Xuan Thuy St, which is filled from one end to the other with bars, restaurants, cafes and art galleries.
Because Thảo Điền is a bit further from HCMC’s main attractions, it isn’t the ideal place to stay for first-time visitors to HCMC. However, for folks who have been before or those looking for a break from the intensity of the city center, this district offers a laid-back vibe. There’s a high concentration of foreigner-friendly services, boutique hotels, semi-long-term rents, bars and restaurants, and a welcoming expat community, all within walking distance.
5. Tan Binh District
Best for authentic South Vietnam
Tan Binh District is big, loud, crowded, messy, hard to navigate, and, unlike the other neighborhoods listed here, is not very tourist-friendly. Travelers looking for the raw, authentic, true-grit experience of South Vietnam should head here.
Christened as a district under Ho Chi Minh City jurisdiction in 1975, Tan Binh is the first among a bevy of new districts established after the unification. Before it came under the city’s mantle, it was a satellite sub-province named Gia Dinh for about 300 years. Waves of immigrants from everywhere else in the country congregated here, beckoned by economic opportunities. Tan Binh became the largest and most-populated district of Ho Chi Minh City until 2003, when it was split into three different districts: Tan Binh, Binh Tan, and Tan Phu. Since then, pockets of immigration settlements have slowly solidified their own distinctly South Vietnam cultural identities within the district.
Tan Binh is impossible to explore entirely on foot due to its sheer size. So the best way is to arrange a motorbike taxi or use a local ride-hailing app like Grab or Xanh SM.
Get a sense of how Tan Binh’s different migrant communities from elsewhere in Vietnam shaped the neighborhood at its many markets. Tan Binh Market (172–174M Ly Thuong Kiet St, Ward 8) specializes in wholesale textile goods and services and has more than 3000 stalls within its building. Ba Hoa Market (also known as Ward 11 Market, Tran Mai Ninh St) is lovingly called “Quang Nam in miniature” by locals and offers specialties from Central Vietnam. It is the only Quang Vietnamese market of the city. Pham Van Hai Market (128 Pham Van Hai St, Ward 3) is a sprawling complex selling anything from house slippers to industrial bronze wiring. On the ground floor of the main building is the food court, which is the local crowd favorite for its sheer variety of flavors and affordability.
Tan Binh District is also famous for its food scene, particularly at its night markets where entire streets will be bustling with hungry customers. Check out the intersection of Bau Cat and Dong Den streets, Le Van Sy St, and Truong Son St. Some must-try foods while you are in Tan Binh include peanut worm congee at 338/3 Ai Co, Ward 10, bun cha (barbecued pork with rice vermicelli) at Bun Cha Met (351A Le Van Sy) and Bun Cha Xuan Tu (291 Hoang Van Thu), and banh out (steamed sheets of rice flour with savory toppings) at Banh Uot Bay Hien (767 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Ward 11). For the cuisine of Quang Nam province, go to My Quang at 233 Bau Cat St, a curbside joint that has been around since 1999 and only serves in the mornings. Luon Xu Nghe Thuong Thuong (121 Bau Cat) specializes in eel and Com Ga Tam Ky (26–30 Bau Cat) serves excellent Hoi An-style chicken rice.