Lonely Planet Destination Editor Amy Lynch traveled down the southwest coast of Greenland by ferry to experience the region in the same way as a local. Here, she shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.
In my role as Destination Editor for the Nordics, UK and Ireland, I’ve been lucky enough to explore some of the most beautiful landscapes on the planet. But Greenland has always been on my bucket list as one of the most extreme, unpopulated, unparalleled places to experience.
When I got the chance to take Arctic Umiaq’s ferry line down the southwest coast of Greenland, from Ilulissat to Narsaq, I was thrilled. This meant riding on the ferry that locals use to visit other villages along the coast (the interior being mostly impassable), stopping off for expeditions at a variety of gorgeous spots, along with walking tours, glamping and visiting glaciers. It was the trip of a lifetime, and I couldn’t wait.
Where did you stay? What was the vibe?
I stayed on the Sarfaq Ittuk for a week as it chugged down the southwest coast of Greenland, sleeping in one of the Umiaq Junior Suites and eating in the canteen. The cabin was spacious for a single person (admittedly it’s made for two), with its own bathroom and shower. And while the ship had a lounge area with vending machines, cinema, plus the canteen, when I wasn’t chilling in my cabin I was on the deck, astounded at the landscapes and trying to capture some of its majesty by photograph.
From the beginning we were passing glaciers, big and small. Then we slowly started to cruise by snow-topped mountains and cliffs, all uninhabited and untouched. Every so often the captain announced a whale sighting and everyone rushed out onto the decks to catch a glimpse. We could see spouts of air shooting up from the water, the rise of the whales’ backs, and then a big beautiful tail splashing down. There were three or four stops a day, from 15 minutes to up to 3 hours, the latter giving us time to hop off for a ramble around the villages and towns and get a flavor of local life.
What’s your favorite photo from the trip and where was it taken?
From our stop in Narsaq we took a boat out to visit the receding Twin Glacier with Blue Ice Explorer. Getting to the glacier involved our very experienced captain, Jacky, navigating his small boat slowly past increasingly obstructive icebergs of varying shades of blue. Our trip turned into an iceberg safari, as the boat steered us slowly around the most beautiful specimens, slowing down for extra excited gawking. The bluer the iceberg the older it is, and some are tens of thousands of years old. Every so often we also heard a crack that sounded like thunder, and watched as segments of broken ice fell into the water. Boat captains keep their distance – the iceberg rebalance can cause massive waves. Once we got as close as we safely could to the Twin Glacier, Jacky taught us about its formation and recession. Then he cracked out a bottle of martini, and we enjoyed the incredible scenery with a drink cooled by iceberg ice.
What was the most under-the-radar activity you enjoyed?
The Sarfaq Ittuk travels from Uummannaq all the way down to Nanortalik at the very bottom of Greenland. There are 16 stops in-between. There are no inland roads between these places, so the only way for the denizens of the towns and villages along the coast to travel around is on the Arctic Umiaq line.
One of the many unexpected joys from my week on the ferry ship was going out on deck for these stops along the route. Nestled among the mountains and ice, some with populations as low as 90 inhabitants, these villages announce themselves with small colorful buildings built right into the craggy landscape. Some are so remote that people come out just to see the ship make its weekly dock and to wave at the passengers.
At most stops there were also tears and hugs as the locals waved off or welcomed back friends and family members. At one stop in Nuuk a group of women struck up a song while the ship pulled out of the harbor. These familial farewells and reunions were very emotional, and gave a sense of the remoteness and isolation of Greenlandic life.
Favorite activity from the trip?
Halfway through our journey down the coast we disembarked the ferry in Nuuk to make an excursion to Camp Kangiusaq in Nuuk Fjord. A water taxi took us through some extraordinary scenery (including an eerie abandoned settlement called Qoornoq) to a fjord within the fjord, where a glamping site opened up on the bank in front of us. The setting was extremely remote, with heating provided by kerosene heaters and no showers to be had (these additions are planned for 2025). Our personal glamping quarters were complete with kerosene heaters and extra blankets. Unfortunately it rained the whole time (which meant we didn’t avail of any of the hiking routes), yet it was utterly beautiful – quiet, serene, isolated, with icebergs floating in front of us. I went kayaking on the lake, floating around the ice and relishing the peace; the only sound was that of the birds and every so often the crack of a breaking iceberg. We had reindeer bolognese for dinner, and my sleep in the damp, kerosene-heated tent was deep.
What is the one thing that you did not expect?
While traveling the coast of Greenland I spent time with various tour guides, business owners and people who were both from and had moved to Greenland. I learned a lot about Greenland’s history and culture of which I had been completely unaware: its history as a colony of Denmark, the destruction of indigenous culture that took place in pursuit of whale fat, the two-tier Greenlandic class system, split between Danish and indigenous lineage, and ongoing efforts to decolonize. It was a joy to accompany Nivé Heilmann of Disko Bay Tours on a hike in Illimanaq as we foraged for the labrador plant to make a refreshing tea and discover the ins and outs of dog sledding in Greenland and its practical historical roots. It was also a privilege to tour Ilulissat with Nivé and learn about the town, her own history and culture, and that of her people. These are the things that make travel worthwhile, and my time in Greenland was thoroughly enriched by it all.
Best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?
Anyone visiting Greenland during the summer should absolutely always remember one item: a sleep mask. There is nothing more likely to ruin your trip than an inability to sleep at night as the midnight sun shines in the window while you’re trying to get some shut-eye. A good-quality, comfortable sleep mask will make all the difference, and is a must for exploring Greenland at this time of year.
Amy Lynch traveled to Greenland at the invitation of Arctic Umiaq Line, Hurtigruten and Visit Greenland. Lonely Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.