This historic spot known for its hospitality now hosts an art and authentic wines
It was nearly impossible to pick just one wine to feature in a summer of swimming in excellent rosés, and difficult to choose just one among the three excellent offerings from Château Peyrassol. So, wine of the month for August is a trio of finely finessed rosés from a Provence powerhouse, each offering a slightly different entry into the portfolio.
Between the foothills of the Massif des Maures and the sea, the 850-acre estate, called La Commanderie de Peyrassol, was founded in the 13th century by the Order of the Knights Templar and the ancient red-cross iconography is part of the chateau’s identity. The Templars were monks and warriors who built the commandery—a sort of fraternal lodge for members of the order—and the chapel. Managing director Alban Cacaret, the nephew of owner Philippe Austruy, says their historic presence “explains the long history of hospitality” at the estate and the surrounds.
And that tradition continues on the estate today, which features dining at two restaurants—the gourmet Chez Jeannette and the more casual Le Bistrot de Lou—accommodations at the La Rouvière hunting lodge and access to a vast outdoor art collection.
“The estate is almost as famous for its art as for its wine,” says Cacaret. A highlight of the open-air gallery is the owner’s personally curated contemporary art collection and a schedule of revolving exhibitions. Caceret says “the idea is to show the link between art, vine and forest.”
But, back to the wine! The estate’s production is devoted 95% to rosé, bottled under the Côtes de Provence AOC designation and true to that fresh and lively style. The viticulture has been organic since 2022 and the oldest vines are 60 years old. Just over 225 acres are under vine.
There is no season to rosé, says Austruy. “It is a sunshine wine, but it doesn’t have to be a seasonal wine,” he says. (His nephew slightly deviates from his philosophy, saying he likes it as a seasonal wine, with the first glass heralding the advent of sprint.) but either way, the men both say the secret of their success is understanding rosé is “a simple wine meant to convey fun, lightness and conviviality.”
That said, the limestone-mineral terroirs help define the structure and keep the wine from being tagged as “candy flavored rosés” Austruy says. The offerings from the estate are light enough to enjoy on their own as aperitifs and, diving deeper into the portfolio, structured enough to hold up to food, well into the fall season. Here are three to try:
A trio of sunny sips
Les Commandeurs. The entry into the line is a bright pink wine with pretty glints. The nose, however, is all about anise—as seductive and heady. On the palate, it’s more medium bodied, a little glycerol and weight, driven by sweet baby strawberries and a splash of pink grapefruit. (SRP ~ $25)
Château Peyrassol. The signature of the estate is a ballet-slipper pink. It’s a little more fruit forward than its little sister, but aromatic on the nose—this one hinting toward white florals and honeysuckle. On the palate, sweet Clementines flavors lend a tropical-inflected character, with ripe fleshy red fruits providing an underlying theme, along with some salinity and an herbal savoriness. This is more structured than Les Commandeurs, so have this with light fare, composed salads, roasted fish or shellfish—or save for your Thanksgiving table. (SRP $40)
Le Clos Peyrassol. The estate’s “tête de cuvée” is a very light coral pink, the juices drawn from the first part of the pressing. The nose is wildly aromatic, redolent of white florals. The medium- to light-bodied palate is very fresh—saline-inflected, echoing the influence of the soil and the sea—a)d shows off very delicate fresh baby red fruits. This is a very pretty blend of Syrah and Cinsault, two grapes typical of the region. (SRP $100)