Lonely Planet writer Chamidae Ford just returned from five blissful days in the British Virgin Islands. Here, she shares a swimming-filled itinerary and tips for experiencing the most of this stunning destination.
On my recent journey to the BVI, with the help of MMGY and the British Virgin Islands Tourism Board, I joined a group of travel writers where we spent five days sailing between its various islands, eating fresh fruit straight from the source and swimming in turquoise waters.
What was your route?
Near Puerto Rico lies an archipelago known as the British Virgin Islands. During my five days, we cruised through the Caribbean, exploring four of the territory’s countless islands. We began at Guana Island, which is just a quick boat ride from the island of Tortola. Here, we relaxed, enjoyed farm-to-table cuisine and swam at their various beaches. From there, we returned to Tortola, the BVI’s main island, where we hiked, swam and dined at some local favorites Quito’s Gazebo and 1748.
We then boarded a catamaran and visited Anegada Island, a sparsely populated coral and limestone island (the only one in the BVI not formed from volcanic origin) known for its flat terrain. We also stopped by Cooper Island.
Mostly undeveloped beyond the Cooper Island Beach Club, this is a popular mooring destination for catamarans and an ideal lunch spot when making your way through this part of the Caribbean.
In Anegada, we visited the Conch Mounds and ate our weight in lobster. On Cooper, we toured the BVI’s only microbrewery and enjoyed their Turtle IPA, which donates one dollar of every sale to BVI turtle conservation. Then we spent the rest of the afternoon jumping into the ocean off the catamaran.
Where did you stay? What was the vibe?
Since we were bopping around, we stayed at a few different places. The stunning Long Bay Beach Resort managed to weave beachy aesthetics with a chic and inviting design. We also spent time onboard a Moorings Catamaran, which was spacious and surprisingly comfortable – is there anything better than waking up on the water?
But my favorite part of the trip was our time at Guana Island. Every room had killer panoramic views, and things couldn’t have been more peaceful and serene – we were at the only hotel on this private island. I could have stayed forever.
What’s your favorite photo from the trip, and where was it taken?
My favorite photo(s) has to be of the view from my hotel room on the Guana Islands. From the back porch, I enjoyed an unobstructed view of the bay – home to North Beach – from the back porch, while the front porch had perfect views of the sunset in the distance.
I spent a morning on my balcony reading, and it was so tranquil and relaxing. I could hear the birds chirping, and there was a slight breeze off the water. It’s a moment I would cherish forever, and I instantly knew I would never stop recommending everyone experience it for themselves.
Favorite activity from the trip?
I’m a certified water lover, and the nonstop swimming was by far my favorite activity on the trip. The first night we arrived on Guana Island, I slipped away before dinner for a quick dip in the ocean.
Just as the sky turned pink, I dove into the crystal clear water at one of Guana Island’s seven beaches. It was the first time in my life I’ve ever had a beach entirely to myself. With soft white sand and warm water, it was the ideal place to refresh after a long day of travel.
Guana Island was only the beginning; I swam basically every day. Whether it was jumping off the catamaran or enjoying Long Bay’s pool and swim-up bar, I couldn’t get enough.
What is the one thing that you did not expect?
I did not expect how non-touristy the BVI felt! Everywhere we went, we met people born and raised in the BVI.
They shared what the BVI was like throughout their lifetime and told us about process of recovering after Hurricane Irma in 2017, and their stories were really powerful. You could feel how much people love their homeland and what a special place this destination is.
One significant factor contributing to the BVI’s authenticity is that there are no major chain corporations on the island. Dining at local restaurants and shopping at locally owned businesses helps you feel like you’re getting the full experience.
At one point, we visited the Callwood Distillery, which has continuously produced rum for over 200 years. During our tasting, we learned that the woman guiding us through the experience was actually a Callwood herself. It was so special to hear her teach us about her family’s history.
Best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?
Try to visit some of the lesser-known islands, like Anegada. It has an entirely different terrain than the other islands; long and flat, it contrasts with the other islands’ towering hills. It is known for its fabulous lobster, flamingo sightings and abundance of conch, and with only about 450 residents, it has a different pace than islands like Tortola.
During our visit to Anegada, we took a boat out to Conch Island. Locals have been discarding conch shells here for over 200 years, creating stunning mounds. The practice came about to help fishermen avoid grabbing empty shells when they are hunting for fresh conch.
The mounds are surprisingly beautiful with its pink and white hues, and they act as a makeshift coral reef for fish, which provides a prime snorkeling spot. It felt like viewing an art installation. I’ve never seen anything like it!
Best thing you ate?
We ate so much good food in the BVI, but the fresh fruit was my favorite. During our time in Guana Island, we took a tour of their orchard and garden, which supplies most of the fruits and vegetables used in their restaurant.
During our tour we sampled fresh star fruit, passion fruit, coconut, mango, wax apples, and papaya. I particularly loved the wax apple, which reminded me more of a pear than an apple.
The fresh fruit didn’t stop when we left Guana Island, though. We hit the trail with Hike BVI, where we visited a pineapple farm, learned about the pineapple-growing process and enjoying some that had just been freshly picked. I also tried soursop, a slightly gooey, tart local fruit that I couldn’t get enough of.