Some people might hasten to call Nathan Davies an overnight success.
As the chef-owner of SY23 (which was not only awarded its first Michelin star, but Michelin’s Opening of the Year 2022) and winner of the Wales heat of the BBC’s Great British Menu, it certainly seems that way,
In reality, however, it’s taken eighteen years. And a whole lot more than a cooking competition.
“I always wanted to be a cook from a young age, food was a big focal point as a family,” says Davies. “I used to fish, shoot with my dad when I was younger and forage food to make preserves and to use in baking with my grandparents.”
Aged fourteen, his culinary journey began as a dishwasher in a local pub, and he hasn’t strayed from his Welsh roots since.
Rising through the ranks, Davies went on to work in some of Wales’ firest restaurants. First, with Steven Terry at The Hardwick in Abergavenny, then as Head Chef at Ynshir (1*) under Gareth Ward, before setting his sights on a restaurant of his own.
When that time finally came, in early 2020, he couldn’t think of anywhere better than his seaside hometown of Aberystwyth.
“I think that Aberystwyth not being at the centre of the culinary world has been a blessing and helped us stand out as slightly more unusual,” he says, “although I think that this part of the world and it’s rich abundance of brilliant produce means it’s like a ticking time bomb and only a manner of time before more and more people open fantastic restaurants to celebrate that.”
Unfortunately, the restaurant was hit by another bomb. Mere weeks after opening. COVID forced the restaurant to shut its doors indefinitely.
“It changed everything,” says Davies. “Our business partner had just invested heavily into opening the restaurant and we had to do what we needed to do to continue trading.”
Wanting to hold onto as many of their staff as possible, they changed the restaurant into a fish and chip takeaway overnight. “This also helped to continue with cash flow, but that time was more about maintaining relationships with suppliers and being ready to move the business forward when reopening,” he says.
Of course, the first lockdown was an uphill battle. And when Davies was approached to participate in the Great British Menu, he wasn’t sure if it was the right decision.
“I had my reservations with only being at the restaurant a few months before this,” he admits. “I worried whether my food style had had long enough to develop into something I wanted the audience of one of the biggest TV programmes in the UK to see yet.”
The unbelievable “Scallop – Seaweed – Burnt Butter” at SY23
Still, this was a lifeline in an unprecedented time. An opportunity he couldn’t refuse.
After agreeing to take part, Davies spent weeks creating a menu that would not only reflect his talent, but the restaurant he hoped SY23 would be able to become.
A thoughtful menu of experimental European and Asian influence, much of which was charcoal-grilled to heights never before experienced by its celebrity judges.
“Perfecting the menu was incredibly labour intensive, late nights after service and days off spent in the kitchen making tweaks and changes and organising props,” he says. “Probably the most surprising thing about the show is, it’s only a matter of weeks before you’re in the studio. The development process is very, very quick.”
And yet, he nailed it. After winning the Welsh heat, Davies went on take his winning starter to the show’s infamous banquet, and get millions of new foodie eyes onto his work.
As a result the newly-Michelin-starred restaurant is now booked up months in advance, serving up a tasting menu so perfect it’s hard to imagine where Davies could possibly take it next.
“In the next five to to ten years who knows what will happen,” he says, “we’re a very young business and are changing all the time.
“We’ll continue to change and progress but we really have no end goal. It’s all about the journey.”
Nathan Davies is famous for his BBQ cooking and experimental flavor pairings