Celebrate Season 2 Of White Lotus By Exploring The Wines Of Sicily

If you’ve been keeping up to date on HBO’s hit show White Lotus, you know that the second season is set along the scenic bluffs of Taormina, Sicily. In the most recent episode, we saw some of the main characters head up to the region’s volcanic vineyards to sip Etna Bianco—a local style of white wine made predominantly from Carricante. One of them even specifically alludes to a popular bottling of such, known as Eruzione.

Indeed, the Etna DOC, hugging the eastern flank of its eponymous volcano, remains one of Italy’s most well-known appellations. But it only represents a small and relatively narrow cross section of what this wondrously varied island has to offer. For a broader taste we must turn our attention to the Sicilia DOC. It was established in 2012 to enshrine quality of production across the entirety of Sicily and today includes over 500 wineries and 58,000 acres of planted grapes.

In addition to the incredible diversity demonstrated across the landscape, there’s also some incredible value to be enjoyed from here. We’re talking luscious wines with loads of complexity, all well under the $50 mark. And many of them are already crowding American shelves. So let’s take a closer look at what the island does best, with some specific bottles to consider hauling home in time for the next episode of everybody’s favorite luxury hotel-based, character-driven anxiety fest.

Nero D’Avola

You cannot have a conservation about Sicilian wine without mentioning Nero D’Avola—the island’s most widely planted red grape. In the bottle the grape often expresses itself with plum fruit, some gentle spice and soft tannins. Elegant examples are too expansive to even list. But the aptly-named Siciliana from Di Giovanna Winery is a sensible place to start your exploration. It’s a fresh, un-oaked (and organic) expression that really showcases the hallmark approachability of the category. All this at under $15 a bottle, by the way. When you’re ready to wade deeper into the Nero waters, procure a bottle of Omnis from Funaro Winery. It hits heavier with licorice and black pepper notes to stand up against the most robust proteins on your plate.

Frappato

Thin-skinned and distantly related to Sangiovese, this finicky grape can have low yields. Which is why many winemakers avoid working with it. But as a few wily producers are proving: the juice is worth the squeeze. As an indigenous varietal, it speaks very specifically to the terroir of Southern Italy and sings with strawberry and lavender in its brilliant bouquet. Most of it hails from Vittoria Frappato—a small DOC in the southwestern corner of Sicily. A standout selection from here is the organic 2021 vintage from Azienda Agricola COS. It’s light and slightly acidic, so many locals will stick in the fridge before serving it with everything from squid to salami. A great warm-weather red alternative to Pinot Noir or Beaujolais. And this especially elegant offering will only set you back $30.

Grillo

Now let’s uncork some whites. This varietal is best known for its starring role in the famed fortified wine of the region, Marsala. It’s only a relatively recent phenomenon that modern drinkers have begun recognizing its merits as a table wine. Especially when expressed gracefully under the curation of a talented winemaker. That’s clearly the case with the 2021 vintage from Tenute Orestiadi. It’s crisp yet full-bodied, offering the florality of orange blossom in the nose and the depth of clay and slate in the finish. It’s sturdy enough to stand up to a couple of years of cellaring. And it’s about $10 a bottle.

Catarratto

This versatile white grape has been planted in Sicily for thousands of years. In the Etna DOC it is typically blended with Carricante. Across the island, however, Sicilian producers have been mining its full body, citrus-laden potential as a standalone varietal. A great example can be found in this $22 bottle from Feudo Montoni which invites some interesting melon and grapefruit to the palate party. A perfect foil for any lighter seafoods on your table—and darker comedies on your TV.