Take Five: Italian Wine Regions To Know This Summer

Food & Drink

These under-the-sun Italian regions offer stunning white wines for summer.

It’s time to break up with your old routine and find a new summer love. Here are five regions in Italy that will wine, dine and romance you and have you saying, “sono follemente innamorato” by end of summer.

Marche. On central Italy’s far east side the large region of Marche (mar-kay) lies between the Apennine mountain range and the Adriatic sea. This, too, was a region under the radar—rustic, off the beaten path and one that played a shadow role to Italy’s more star-studded regions with most of the wines sold as simple table wines. But the Marche fits neatly in the trend of tapping undiscovered regions and grapes, less fuss and more authenticity. If you visit here, this is greatly enhanced by pairing the wines with the abundant local agricultural products—lentils, sheep cheeses and Ascoli-stuffed olives. The not-to-be-missed white wines are made primarily from the Trebbiano and Verdicchio varieties. Two DOCGs boast high-quality styles of Verdicchio: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. Crisp and slightly green in both color and flavor, the wines feature a good jolt of acidity and herbal tones. Another unsung hero is the more floral-tones Pecorino (“little sheep”), a dry high-acid wine that almost was extinct, but has been rejuvenated in recent decades. Given its name, it naturally goes with sheep cheeses. Look for: Tenuta di Tavignano, Borgo Paglianetto, Azienda Agricola Zaccagnini.

Asti DOCG. You may have heard of Asti Spumante, the semi-sweet low-fizz wine (and subject of numerous cheesy commercials), but this region in northwest Italy in Piedmont is more than just that. The name “Asti” is attached to two regions of predominantly red-wine production: Barbera d’Asti and Dolcetto d’Asti, lighter styles using Nebbiolo and Dolcettto grapes, respectively. And then Moscato d’Asti, home of low-alcohol wines that despite their sweeter profile, are fresh and redolent of peach and florals. The region is classified as DOCG, the highest in quality. In turn, the Asti DOCG covers four communes of quality wines: Moscato d’Asti, a “frizzante” wine of one-2.5 atms of pressure and between 4.5-6.5% abv; Asti (Spumante), also a low-alcohol sparkling white wine, but with a minimum of atms of pressure; Asti (Spumante) Metodo Classico, made in the traditional method with a secondary fermentation in bottle; and a late harvest wine. Easy to find producers include: Ceretto, Contratto, Fontanafredda, Gancia, Gatti and, of course, Martini & Rossi.

Campania DOC. South of Rome and centered around Naples and Pompeii is Campania, a rough and tumble region of ancient grapes and a variety of styles that range from fresh and bright to structured and deep. The two DOCGs for white are Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo, of which the Fiano grape comprises about 11% of production and Greco 10%. Falanghina is the third predominant white grape here. Lesser known white varieties include Biancolella and Forastera, the foundation of white wines of the island of Ischia. Major producers include Donnachiara, Feudi di San Gregorio, Mustilli and Villa Raiano.

Lazio. Just north of Rome, the land of the Etruscans often is overlooked for wine: Historically, the wines were flabby and awkward, on the sweet side. But like many rustic regions, wine styles and preferences have shifted and Lazio now is known as a source of fresh, crisp dry white table wines made from Trebbiano, Malvasia di Candia and Malvasia Puntinata. Meant for drinking young, they’re ideal for the summer table and light dishes such as seafood pastas, melon and prosciutto, and even some pork-based Asian foods. Subregions include the Castelli Romani, Frascati, Orvieto (straddles the Umbria border), but in the United States, you’ll find most bottles labeled with the broader Lazio IGP designation. If you live in a city with an Eataly (Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles and New York), the region will be well represented. Wine shops with an Italian focus will have a few bottles, too. Well-known producers include Famiglia Cotarella Falesco, Omino Romana, Sergio Mottura and Casale del Giglio.

Lugana DOC. Under the radar to many U.S. wine drinkers, the Lugana DOC on the southern tip of the majestic 32-mile-long Lake Garda is coming into its own for medium-bodied whites made from the Turbiana grape—also called Trebbiano di Lugana, and related to Verdicchio—and roses under the denomination of Chiaretto di Bardolino. Its adjacency to the lake provides a temperate maritime influence, and helps make this Italy’s most northern Mediterranean climate. The wines feature a heftier mouthfeel, making them good companions to pasta and roasted or grilled fish and white meats. There tends to be a little more residual sugar and flavor profiles often feature honeycomb, along with lemon curd and a hint of saline minerality. The adjacent Garda DOC produces sparkling and Chiaretto. Producers to look for: Ca Maiol, Corte Sermana, Marangona, Pasini San Giovanni, Perla del Garda and Tommasi.

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