What Does The Future Hold For Organic Wines?

Predicting the future of organic wines may seem easy. The number of certified hectares is steadily increasing in Europe. Small wine growers convert, as well as famous Bordeaux chateaux. Consumers increasingly buy organic wines. Bulk prices for organic wine soar. Is there any reason why this should not continue?

There is much to suggest that it will continue in this direction. In this article we will focus primarily on France and Europe but the development will probably be similar elsewhere.

In 2012, we wrote our book “Biodynamic, Organic and Natural Winemaking”. At that time, the organic vineyard surface in Europe was just over 5%. Now, almost ten years later, it is at 13%. Back then, in 2012, many consumers were sceptical of organic wines. A lot has happened since then. Organic wines are now a natural feature in wine shops. Those who do not like a wine no longer think that it is because it is organic (which some people actually thought a few years ago).

For a closer look at what organic wine is, read this earlier Forbes article: Organic Wine And Biodynamic Wine, What Is It, Exactly?

Italy is the number one organic wine country in Europe (and the world), with more than 16% of its wine area organically certified or under conversion. France and Spain have just over 13%. Gérard Bertrand, one of the major organic producers in Languedoc, believes that 50% of the French vineyards will be organic in 10 years. Does this seem reasonable?

I do not think it will happen that fast, although there is much to suggest that the pace is maintained. But there are also some question marks.

Will consumers in general soon demand organic farming for wines? I do not think so. But it is not inconceivable that they will require some environmental commitment on the part of producers. However, a sustainability certification may be “enough” for them.

The biggest obstacle to organic labelling’s continued progress could very well be sustainability.

Many countries and wine regions are investing heavily in sustainable certifications. There is definitely a risk (or how you choose to see it) that the sustainability labels will take “market” share from the organic label. Being sustainable is less strict. Easier, in some ways. The producers can continue with synthetic spraying against pests and can improve their way of working at their own pace. But it still shows customers that they have a plan for their environmental work.

Organic farming pays. If we look at bulk sales in France, we see significantly higher prices for organic wines. Today, consumers are willing to pay more for organic wine. Therefore, more and more producers are likely to convert for market reasons. This is a change from the early days when the motivation was almost always a belief in “organics is good” (this is still an important driver though). There is nothing wrong with becoming organic to satisfy demand. However, the high bulk prices may be due to a shortage of organic wine in some regions, such as Bordeaux. Will prices be kept up if the number of organic wines in the region increases?

The weather plays a significant role in the lives of all farmers, including winegrowers. So, the weather will have a say in the matter, at least in the short term. Organic growers are more limited in how they can fight the effects of bad weather (especially fungus diseases), so can be hit harder. If there are several difficult, rainy years in a row with fungal diseases spreading out of control, those considering converting may think again. Those who are under conversion may give up to save their harvest. In wine regions with difficult climates, some growers believe that synthetic spraying is inevitable.

That the climate plays a role is well illustrated in France. Warm and sunny Provence has 24% of its vineyard surface in organic farming, the Rhône Valley and Roussillon have 18%. The figures are much lower in the northern and the Atlantic regions, cooler and rainier. Bordeaux has only 9%, Champagne 3% and Cognac a paltry 1%. But to be fair, all three of these regions are improving steadily. And the demand for organic cognac has so far been extremely low.

The fact that several synthetic products (to fight diseases and pests) are now banned in some countries or throughout the EU may lead to more producers feeling compelled to engage in organic farming. Glyphosate, for example, the active ingredient in many herbicides, is now allowed in France only in limited quantities. Hennessy Cognac, which produces almost half of all cognac, will demand that its grape suppliers completely abandon synthetic herbicides by 2030.

The rules for how to use synthetic pesticides are becoming more and more strict. The complaints in France these last few years from people living close to vineyards have led to new regulations concerning spraying near where people live.

Everyone sprays with something, though. Organic farming is based on giving up all synthetic pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers. Thus, effective methods are needed to protect the crop with natural mechanisms.

Infusions, decoctions of plants, herbal teas and such are used, of course, but with limited success. But more and more natural products, often based on microorganisms such as bacteria, viruses and fungi, are now being introduced to fight pests and diseases. Organic growers are allowed to use many (but not all) of them.

If these natural products prove effective, more wine producers may switch to organic. The pests and the diseases will not go away. Good alternatives for synthetic products are needed and much research is being done.

You cannot totally get rid of spraying. But the spraying can be limited and maybe even more so in the future. The new fungus-resistant grapes (sometimes called PIWI, an abbreviation of the German Pilzwiderständige) are hybrids but with a high percentage of Vitis vinifera in them. This means that they not only have good resistance to certain diseases, they also taste good. In Sweden, England, Canada and some other distinctly cool climate regions, they are already well established. Also, Germany and Switzerland use them. But it remains to be seen if producers and consumers in the classic wine regions of France will accept these new grape varieties. Maybe eventually, they will have to. But we’re not there yet. At present, these grapes are not allowed in French appellation wines. But it’s just a matter of time.

Regions where the name of the grape plays less of a role lead the way. The Cognac region expects to use resistant grape varieties on a large scale in 2030, with a sharp reduction in spraying as a result. Languedoc is taking tentative steps. There is also a lot to be done with Vitis vinifera grapes. Bordeaux is experimenting with Portuguese grapes that can withstand hot weather and drought. Research is going on in Burgundy to combine the region’s traditional grapes with better-adapted rootstocks and clones.

Has there ever been more research, trials and experiments going on in the vineyards? I don’t think so.

—Britt Karlsson