Photo Illustration: Kristin Tablang
As a devoted and enthusiastic consumer of all amber-hued spirits and Old World red wines, it took me a long while to warm up to the idea of drinking rosé regularly. (Hey, even spirits and wine writers can be set in their ways.) Beyond that, when the demand for the pink-hued drink escalated amidst all the hype in recent years, the market was flooded with truly awful bottles laden with additives—packaged in vibrant millennial-friendly branding.
But more than a few years ago in Paris, a kind sommelier, sensing my indecision about what to pair with my moules-frites, generously poured me a crisp Bandol—on the house. And let me tell you: It was one of those epicurean revelations, similar to the first time I enjoyed oyster laced with Islay Scotch. So I ordered a full bottle.
These days quality rosé is now a part of the mealtime-pairing rotation. They’re refreshing, far from overwhelming, and just plain pleasant whether on its own or when accompanied by a meal. After all, rosés are immensely versatile.
The 2019 Château Minuty 281 has everything you want in a rosé—good structure, a pleasant mouthfeel, … [+]
Château Minuty
My current favorite is the 2019 Château Minuty 281 from Côtes de Provence ($85), which is 90 percent Grenache and 10 percent Syrah. It’s got everything you want in a rosé—good structure, a pleasant mouthfeel, and on the nose refreshing hints of citrusy crispness. Aged for four months in stainless steel, it’s not too “creamy” nor overwhelmingly acidic—making it enormously pairable. Think: seared mackarel, The Stew, tacos, or even fried chicken.
But of course, I love expanding my horizons.
Discovering and learning about new wines and spirits bring me profound joy—so I reached out to Master Sommelier Phillip Dunn, the director of wine and spirits at Wolgang Puck’s Spago in Beverly Hills. Previously, in the aughts, Dunn was the vice director of wine at Michelin-starred Canlis in Seattle. So he certainly knows his stuff. Now, at Spago’s decidedly vast wine cellar, which holds 3,000 selections, Dunn was generous enough to share a list his top picks—many of which are accessibly priced and far from pretentious. For instance: His preferences include the $1 sparkling canned rosé from Trader Joe’s to a complex Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo and beyond.
“I generally choose rosé based on what I’m eating or if I’m just having a glass on a Sunday afternoon. I like to pair dishes off the grill with an earthy style or one with a bit more color and richness,” Dunn says. “Everything outside of that is your typical light bodied rosé, fresh and fruity, with bright acidity.These will pair with light salads, fish tacos, tamales, ceviche or just sitting on the patio. Be experimental and try different styles from all over the world.”
The Best Rosé Wines for Summer and Beyond
Joseph Weaver
AZIENDA AGRICOLA, VALENTINI, CERASUOLO DI MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO (ITALY), $110
“Quite possibly the most complex rosé on the market,” Dunn says. “Biodynamically produced and a winery concealed in secrecy, this is not your everyday rosé. Limited and expensive but worth it. Try it with grilled meats or roasted game birds.”
PLANETA ROSÉ, SICILIA DOC (SICILY, ITALY), $9
“The best ‘bang for your buck’ rosé this summer. Imported by Palm Bay Imports. Priced well and no bottle opening skills necessary, makes for the perfect house rosé.”
TRESOMM ROSÉ GRINGOLIÑO (VALLE DE GUADALUPE, MEXICO), $30
“This rosé is made by sommeliers Chris Miller and Taylor Grant of Scopa in Los Angeles,” Dunn says. “It’s fresh and bright—perfect with ceviche and fish tacos.”
SOFIA BRUT ROSÉ (CALIFORNIA), $19
“Very accessible and a great patio or poolside pounder. Try it over ice with two ounces of vodka or gin and an orange wedge.”
Château Simone
CHÂTEAU SIMONE, ROSÉ, PALETTE AOP (PROVENCE, FRANCE), $50
“This rosé is dark but don’t let the color fool you. It’s my go-to for any grilled protein or barbecue. Palette is the smallest appellation in Provence with only two producers.”
CHARLES JOGUET ROSÉ, CHINON AOP (LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE), $26
“This pale pink wine is made with Cabernet Franc and has a lot of punch with its fruity and earthy profile. Pair it with grilled fish or sautéed clams and mussels.”
GRAMERCY CELLARS ROSÉ, OLSEN VINEYARD (COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON), $22
“This is a single-vineyard rosé crafted by Gramercy Cellars founder Greg Harrington. Orange peel, bright red cherry, and strawberry—always balanced and modeled after rosés from Provence.”
Domaine Du Bagnol
DOMAINE DU BAGNOL, CASSIS ROSÉ AOP (PROVENCE, FRANCE), $30
“One of my personal favorites imported by Neil Rosénthal. Always tough for me to get a bottle here in the West Coast, but well worth it if you come across it. I recommend it tableside at Spago all summer.”
GONET–MÉDEVILLE EXTRA BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE (FRANCE), $50
“Husband and wife, Xavier and Julie, make a beautiful delicate Champagne. Low dosage (which means less sugar) and drier in style. Perfect as an aperitif and as a bonus not expensive.”
WEINGUT JÄGER ROSÉ SWEIGELT (AUSTRIA), $22
“Made with the red grape Zweigelt from the Wachau region in Austria, this pale pink wine is loaded with red fruit and a lemon-like acidity.”
CLOS BEYLESSE ROSÉ, CÔTE DE PROVENCE (FRANCE), $27
“Delicate and ultra-pale pink. In some years, it looks almost like a white wine,” Dunn says. “It’s savory and herbal with hints of fresh flowers and red and stone fruits. Don’t judge a bottle by its color. The bottle is UV protected cobalt blue.”
TRADER JOE’S SIMPLER WINES SPARKLING ROSÉ (ITALY), $4 FOR A FOUR-PACK
Trader Joe’s
“This Trader Joe’s canned Italian frizzante rosé is quite simple but very refreshing and low calorie,” Dunn says. “At only $1 a can, this wine is almost free. Great for the pool or mowing the lawn. Also, as with other canned sparkling wine, try it over ice with a shot of gin or vodka then add an orange or lemon slice.”