There’s a legitimate case to be made for white Port being the most under-appreciated and misunderstood fortified wine in the world. I’d estimate that around 90 percent of the time I mention it, I’m greeted with a bemused look and some version of the response, “But…Port’s red, isn’t it?”
Yes, most Port is red. Tawny, too. But white Port also plays an important part in the world of Portugal’s most famous fortified wine. The issue, I think, is that while it’s employed to utterly delicious ends in Porto itself, not nearly enough American consumers know what to make of it, or how to maximize its many charms. Happily, I’m seeing it more and more often at great cocktail bars around the United States, and bartenders and mixologists are beginning to take brilliant advantage of its versatility. They’re doing the same with ruby and tawny Port, too, both of which are proving themselves to be invaluable resources in cocktails.
But my white Wine of the Week is a white Port, specifically the Taylor Fladgate Chip Dry, which has become a go-to for me personally in this transitional season where I’m ready to drink a bit less gin than I did when the weather was warmer, but not quite ready to jump into my whiskies and rums the way I will when autumn arrives in all its chilliness.
I drink most of my white Port with tonic, which is a phenomenal early-autumn drink that always seems to channel the season in perfect liquid form. I have particular affection for the Taylor Fladgate Chip Dry with Fever-Tree Tonic. The Port’s subtly oxidative, quietly floral aromas of Marcona almonds precede flavors of white licorice, mashed pears, lemon oil, and a finish that whispers in the direction of flowers again. Mixed with the tonic, it seems to perfectly embody the autumn. But honestly, it’s delicious any time of year.
My red Wine of the Week is the Theorem Vineyards Voir Dire Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 from Napa Valley’s Diamond Mountain. Crafted from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grown on Theorem’s estate vineyard on the mountain’s northern flank, this is a wine of power alongside incredible balance, of ripe fruit anchored by the kind of sweet spice that lingers far after the wine’s finish has left the palate.
The 2015 Voir Dire has a stunning nose, with chocolate and Amarena cherries dancing with hoisin sauce, fig paste, perfectly roasted coffee, and spearmint at the edges that keeps it all so fresh. Black raspberries and blackberries also peek through, as well as cardamom, clove, and cinnamon stick. On the palate, this is pure silk in texture and with a beam of acidity cutting right through it, the flavors of chocolate-enrobed black and red cherries and Chinese five-spice powder flashing along its spine, as well as a hint of the spearmint from the nose. This has a lifespan of decades, but it’s awfully delicious already.
Taylor Fladgate Chip Dry White Port
The Port’s subtly oxidative, quietly floral aromas of Marcona almonds precede flavors of white licorice, mashed pears, lemon oil, and a finish that whispers in the direction of flowers again. Easygoing, sneakily complex, and utterly charming. SRP: $19.99
Portugal’s Douro Valley, where the grapes for the Taylor-Fladgate Chip Dry White Port are grown, is … [+]
Theorem Vineyards Voir Dire Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Diamond Mountain District, Napa Valley
Such a stunning nose, with chocolate and Amarena cherries dancing with hoisin sauce, fig paste, perfectly roasted coffee, and spearmint at the edges that keeps it all so fresh. Black raspberries and blackberries also peek through, as well as cardamom, clove, and cinnamon stick. On the palate, this is pure silk in texture and with a beam of acidity cutting right through it, the flavors of chocolate-enrobed black and red cherries and Chinese five-spice powder flashing along its spine, as well as a hint of mint.
The Theorem Vineyards Voir Dire Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 is a wine of layered complexity, longevity, … [+]