Wines Of The Week: Domaine Laroche Grand Cru Les Clos And Sea Smoke “Ten” Pinot Noir

There’s a wall in my dining room that’s completely covered by framed menus from memorable meals I’ve enjoyed over the years. Among the most prominently displayed is one from a Domaine Laroche Chablis lunch at Restaurant Daniel in New York in 2008. It was the first high-end French wine lunch I’d ever been invited to as a professional, and it was a deeply memorable experience—Chef Boulud was as charming and welcoming as ever, and the wines showed with a particular brilliance that afternoon alongside the beautiful dishes he prepared. Laroche has had a special place in my wine-pumping heart ever since.

Which is why I’m so excited that my white Wine of the Week today is the Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2017, a Chardonnay that’s practically alive with coiled energy, and that deliciously demonstrates just how profound and unforgettable the best wines of the region—and this producer—can be. Sweet spice informs aromas of jasmine and Seckel pear, and the silky, concentrated and subtly powerful palate pulses with flavors of tarragon, kaffir lime leaf and fresh-squeezed lime, and a ringing sense of minerality.

Technical Director Grégory Viennois told me that, when he arrived at Laroche at the end of 2010, the decision was made to work in a more ecologically conscientious manner. In addition to focusing on what he called a “new biological dynamism” during a phone interview, Laroche has been given the HVE, or High Environmental Value, certification, which ensures that their processes are respectful of wildlife, recycling, water, and more. Since then, Gregory said, the vineyards have been able to better withstand heatwaves, and the resulting fruit produces wine with more dry extract and energy, more reliable maturity and acid balance, and a better texture. The Grand Cru Les Clos is a beautiful example of all their hard work paying off. (For less money, around $29 – $34, the Domaine Laroche Chablis Saint Martin 2017, their entry-level bottling, is incredible, with lots of oyster shell, tarragon, fennel bulb, lime, and crushed rocks keeping it both approachable and thoroughly tied to the famous Chablis terroir.)

My red Wine of the Week is the Sea Smoke Pinot Noir “Ten” 2016, a cult-status Pinot that manages to both express the uniqueness of the biodynamic estate vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills, and at the same time convey an almost Burgundian sense of haunting subtlety. Aromatically, it’s very much on the quiet side before it gets some air in the glass or decanter, with hints of red cherry, cinnamon stick, ground nutmeg, and star anise fluttering above the liquid. These prime the palate for flavors of bing and black cherry, black raspberry, peppercorn, candied violets, and hints of cola spice, lavender, and rooibos. The way it threads the needle between concentrated power and finesse is remarkable.

The name “Ten” is a reference to the 10 clones of Pinot Noir that go into the wine, which all come together with a particular sense of brilliance in this vintage. The wine was aged in 100% French oak, of which 60% was new, and released this past October for $82. It’s available online for a bit more than that, but the average price is over $100. Which, it seems to me, is more than reasonable for a Pinot Noir that delivers as much pleasure as this one does.

Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2017

Hints of vanilla pod inform aromas of jasmine, Seckel pear, and a bit of sweet spice. The palate, silky in texture and cut through with linear, almost salty acidity, is concentrated and powerful, with flavors of tarragon, kaffir lime leaf, fresh-squeezed lime, and mineral, finishing with remarkable detail and length. Drink this now or age it for another two decades. Approx. $140 – $150

Sea Smoke Pinot Noir “Ten” 2016 Sta. Rita Hills

This has an unexpectedly subtle nose until it gets some air, with red cherry, cinnamon stick, a touch of ground nutmeg, and star anise. On the palate, more assertive concentration carries the day, with beautiful bing and black cherry, black raspberry, peppercorn, candied violets, and clove. With a bit of air, distinct rose petal notes emerge from the nose and find a counterpart on the palate, as well as a touch of cola spice, rooibos, and lavender. Enjoy this now or hold it for another 15 years. SRP: $82