Follow the seaside north from Barcelona and you’ll discover the Costa Brava, a dramatic 200km (124-mile) stretch filled with picturesque villages, clifftop trails, and hidden beaches and coves begging to be explored. For centuries, the coast has been a source of creativity for artists like Salvador Dalí who drew inspiration from the many surreal rock formations in the rugged Cap de Creus Natural Park and mid-century filmmakers who sought out the scenic backdrops of Tossa de Mar.
The coastline is a summer paradise for vacationers who want to pad their schedules with long lunches and lazy beach days, as well as a playground for adventurers seeking coastal trails and routes by land and sea. There are profoundly historic sites like the ancient ruins of the Iberian peninsula’s first Greek settlement in Empúries, as well as prehistoric structures still standing in the hills above the Bay of Roses.
There is no true center to the Costa Brava, rather it is a destination that begs to be explored languorously, hopping from village to village and cove to cove.
When should I go to the Costa Brava?
The best time to visit the Costa Brava for a beach holiday is between June and September. July and August are the best months for swimming, but also tend to be the most crowded and expensive. June and September are ideal months to visit since you might luck out with a few warm sunny days that can make for a refreshing dip in the sea, but can generally find lower rates on hotels.
If swimming isn’t a priority, temperatures are cool and comfortable in the spring (March to May) and fall (October to November) and it’s generally sunny although an overcast and rainy week here and there is a possibility.
How much time should I spend in the Costa Brava?
It’s possible to take a day trip to the Costa Brava from Barcelona, but you should expect to spend at least two to three hours traveling there and back. Two or three nights is perfect for a weekend getaway if you pick one area to explore — like the Cap de Creus or the Cap de Begur peninsulas — but you will need at least a week if you want to do a more thorough exploration of the coast and visit multiple towns and scenic areas.
Is it easy to get in and around the Costa Brava?
Trains from Barcelona can get you as far as Girona and Figueres, but you will still need to transfer by bus to travel the last leg to the seaside. A car will give you the most freedom to explore this region, especially if you want to visit some of the rural inland attractions like wineries and farmhouse restaurants, but it’s also doable to get around by bus.
Moventis is the main bus operator in the Costa Brava and there are direct routes from Barcelona (including Barcelona Airport), Girona and Figueres that connect the larger towns on the coast like L’Escala, Begur, and Palafrugell. If you are traveling from Roses to Cadaqués, it’s also popular to buy a one-way ticket on a sightseeing boat like El Blaus de Roses, which is a more scenic alternative than the bus connection.
Top things to do in the Costa Brava
Explore the diverse range of beaches
Not just rocky cliffs, you can also find many long sandy beaches along the Costa Brava. Some more commercial beach towns include Platja d’Aro which has a 2km (1.2-mile) stretch of golden sand and a wide selection of family hotels. Roses is similar, but located more north and offers more opportunities for day trips to scenic villages like Cadaqués.
Two of the coast’s most beautiful beaches — Platja de I’llla Roja and Platja de Sa Riera — are connected by a short walkway near Begur. If you prefer rocky beaches, Cala Sa Tuna is a small beach framed by colorful buildings that sit right at the water’s edge.
Walk along the Camí de Ronda
Trackable by its red-and-white trail marker the Camí de Ronda, also known as the G-92, is a hiking path that travels the entire length of the Costa Brava from Portbou to Blanes. On your Costa Brava trip, you could work in one of the more scenic segments like the trail between Llafranc and Tamariu or between Sant Feliu de Guíxols and Palamos. During the busy summer months, these trails are a good way to get away from the beach crowds and you can find small coves for swimming along the way.
Get to know Dalí and his artworks
Salvador Dalí built his surrealist masterpiece the Teatre-Museu Dalí in his birth town of Figueres, a small inland city that can easily be reached by train from Barcelona. It’s an over-the-top museum and also his final resting place.
In Cadaqués, you can get a peek into the artist’s personal life at the Casa Museu Dalí, another museum that preserves the artist’s seaside home where he lived with his wife Gala from 1930 to 1982. Tours are by timed-entry only and tickets are in high-demand so you should book as soon as you know when you’ll be in town. However, if they are sold out, you can still buy a half-price ticket that grants you access to the pool and olive garden. If you are a true Dalí disciple, complete the Dalí Triangle on a trip to the Castell de Púbol, which is entirely dedicated to the life of Gala and her influence on the career of her quirky husband.
See Greek ruins and Roman mosaics in Empúries
The Costa Brava may seem far from the isles of Greece, but it’s here where you’ll find one of the oldest architectural sites in Spain. Near the town of L’Escala, the ruins of the first Greek settlement on the Iberian Peninsula are preserved in an expansive outdoor museum located on the seafront. There are also fantastic Roman ruins located in the same complex, including fabulous mosaic floors that are uncovered during the summer season.
My favorite thing to do in the Costa Brava
When I need a break from the rush of city life in Barcelona, a weekend spent on the pine forest trails of the Camí de Ronda is the perfect reset. The route continues along the whole coastline, so I can choose to pack light for a village-to-village hike, or take my time on a leisurely loop. Sweeping seaside vistas are delightful stopping points, but if the weather is warm enough I’ll also pack my snorkel and water shoes so I can take advantage of the uncrowded calas (coves) for a chance to cool off and find a peaceful moment floating in the Mediterranean.
How much money do I need for the Costa Brava?
The Costa Brava isn’t the cheapest destination, but there are many ways to keep your expenses low. While there are a lot of beautiful hotels and vacation rentals you can find with seaside views and top-notch amenities, you can also find reasonable hostels and two-star hotels in the larger beach towns. Transportation and gas will be one of your larger expenses whether you rent a car, or if you travel by bus, especially if you plan to visit multiple towns.
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Accommodations: €22–250 per night (US$23.23–264)
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Round-trip bus ticket from Barcelona: €30–60 (US$32–63)
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Paella lunch for two: €60–80 (US$63–84)
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Glass of wine: €4–10 (US$4.22–10.56)
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Coffee: €1.50–3 (US$1.58–3.17)
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Sandwich: €3 (US$3.17)