On my first trip to Paris, I went to a small rustic restaurant that served dinner “family style” on big wooden boards, in pottery from Provence, and old woven baskets. It was picturesque and left a culinary stamp on my brain.
The meal started with hunks of cheese, sausages, cornichons and a bowl of “country caviar.” The bread, cheese and meat were as delicious as you would expect, but what blew me away was the “country caviar.”
It’s hard to believe that out of all the great iconic French food, the dish that has stood the test of time for me is the bowl of “country caviar” that, in fact, is a cold lentil salad.
But these French lentils are different than the Indian lentils that you may be familiar with in dal and Indian cuisine. They are small, greenish black in color and don’t lose their shape. Once you see the dish, it’s evident why the restaurant referred to the dish as “country caviar.” It looks like caviar.
A classic vinaigrette made with red wine vinegar and Dijon mustard is all you need to flavor the … [+]
The lentils are perfectly cooked so that they pop a little in your mouth but are creamy on the inside. The restaurant dressed them simply with a homemade vinaigrette that was slightly pungent with sharp Dijon mustard and red wine vinegar. Minced shallots, carrot and curly parsley added color, crunch and flavor to the dish. The dish was simple and straight forward but the combination was rich and the texture addictive.
We couldn’t stop eating them and I couldn’t keep them off my mind. I asked the proprietor of the restaurant what they were, and he wrote the name, “Lentilles du Puy” down on a piece of paper and told me that I could buy them at a little grocery close to the restaurant.
Lentilles du Puy are grown in the rugged mountainous region of Auvergne in the south of France. Only those lentils grown near Puy-en-Velay (thus, lentilles du Puy) are designated lentilles du Puy and they are regulated by the AOC (appellation d’origine controlée) seal. They are grown in volcanic-rich soil and much like old-vine grapes, left to grow with no fertilizer or watering. The result is that the lentils have have more (flavor) character like wine grapes from old vines.
Like other lentils, they are high in protein and fiber and very good for you. But you will make them because they taste so good, are easy and very satisfying.
I went to the store and purchased what turned out to be the best souvenir of the trip. Once I was home, I followed the cooking instructions on the box and added the ingredients that I remembered tasting as I ate helping after helping of that toothsome salad.
Many years later, I still make the side dish/salad often. It is a side dish that goes with just about everything and is healthy to boot. Last night I ate the salad warm with garlic sausage and mashed Brown-Butter Butternut Squash and it hit the spot!
The lentils are cooked in water that is scented with a couple of whole shallots.
French Lentil Salad
Think of this salad as country caviar. The small French lentils keep their shape after cooking and make a heart and healthy salad that will be a bistro hit in your home!
Makes 4 cups
1 cup dried small French green lentils (lentilles de Puy A.O.C.)
1 generous tablespoon Dijon mustard
Pinch of kosher salt; more to taste
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper; more to taste
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar (not balsamic)
1⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 small carrot, minced
2 large shallots, divided
2 tablespoons chopped fresh curly parsley
Fleur de Sel or Maldon Sea Salt
1. Rinse the lentils and remove any gravel, odd pieces or dirt that may have found it’s way in the box. You will likely need to rinse and discard the water 4-5 times until the water is clear. Note that you do not need to soak the lentils before cooking.
2. Fill a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan with enough water to cover the lentils by 2 inches—about 4-5 cups of water.
3. Peel and add one of the shallots—which will likely have 2 bulbs if it is a large one—to the water and add lentils.
4. Bring to a gentle boil; reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer until the lentils are just tender but not falling apart, about 25-30 minutes total cooking time. Watch the liquid level carefully during cooking, adding enough water to keep the lentils just covered if too much has evaporated.
5. Meanwhile, chop the remaining shallot and the carrot using a mini chopper or by hand and set aside. Cut the tops off of a bunch of the curly parley with kitchen scissors or chop with a knife.
6. Make the vinaigrette by combining the mustard, salt, pepper, and vinegar in a small bowl or jar. Whisk until the mustard is dissolved, then slowly whisk in the oil until fully combined and emulsified. If using a jar, put all ingredients in the jar, screw on the lid and shake until emulsified.
7. When lentils are done, drain and place them in a bowl large enough to mix in the other ingredients.
8. While the lentils are warm, add the vinaigrette, carrot, shallots, and parsley. Toss gently, taking care not to smash the lentils. Taste and adjust the vinegar if necessary (the dressing should have a hint of mustard and enough acidity from the vinegar to offset the richness of the lentils). Finish the dish with Fleur de Sel or Maldon Sea Salt.
9. This salad can be served warm, at room temperature, or cold. It will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.