Copper Cane Winemaker Joe Wagner Talks About The Future Of American Wine

Food & Drink

Joe Wagner has been in the wine world for as long as he can remember. It’s in his blood. The fifth generation Napa Valley winemaker hails from the family that founded the now-legendary Caymus Vineyards back in 1972. He’s been planting grapes in Northern California since he was a teenager in the ‘90s. But it wasn’t until 2007 that he went off on his own, starting the enduringly popular Meiomi Wines. He sold that company to Constellation Brands in 2015, at which point he launched another impressive portfolio of liquids under the Copper Cane label.

“My dad taught me everything I needed to know to be proficient in wine,” he recalls of his initial immersion into the industry. “He brought me up the ladder starting in vineyards, then winemaking, on to marketing and sales. The foundation is what’s important in any profession and once you have that, you can grow and learn on your own.”

Beyond the bottling of quality juice, Copper Cane has grown—significantly—on its own thanks to Wagner’s innovative approach to marketing. His goal in starting the company was always to focus on the wine styles that captured his interest. But now he’s focusing on arenas and causes that are near and dear to his heart. It involves marquee partnerships with organizations not traditionally associated with luxury wines.

After teaming up with Major League Baseball, you can now find Copper Cane wines on offer at some of the most celebrated sports stadiums in the country. Some of them even hold dedicated tasting rooms. Wagner also partnered up with the USO, the nation’s leading charitable organization for active-duty members and military families.

Although overall American wine volume sales have sputtered in recent years, Wagner’s tactics are helping him buck the trend. His brands have actually seen growth throughout that time. What secrets can he share about the past, present and future of the category? Find out in an exclusive interview below…

What are your general thoughts on the state of the industry?

Joe Wagner: “Undoubtedly wine is in oversupply at the moment domestically and internationally. Acreage is being pulled everywhere to combat this, but it’s a multi-year process to correct the supply. If I had a magic wand, I would have policy changes to focus on domestic supply and domestic marketing for wine first and foremost. Wine has such a rich history and is generally enjoyed over a meal with family and friends. It is a part of human culture. One issue I see is that many other countries wine industries are being subsidized, allowing their finished product to land on US shores at a cost lower than what domestic producers can do it for. The downstream of this is bad for the industry in general and could be corrected by tariffs on imports while American wineries get their feet back under them.”

What steps are you taking to help improve the outlook?

JW: “We are pulling all stops on getting the word out on wine, assessing what was working and how that has evolved for the next generation of wine consumer. Wine dinners seem to be a dying breed, but events with wine alongside other cultural elements like art, music, food and cocktails are the trending focus. Me and some other industry friends are hoping to pilot a program that changes the way people perceive wine from the stuffy, elitist mindset, to an everyday part of enjoying life and food. We also will continue to talk to the front line of servers, wine stewards, etc. that are interacting with customers about the importance of this change in tune.”

Are you excited about harvest this year? What can we expect?

JW: “The 2024 growing season started off quite similar the 2023, which in my opinion along with many other counterparts in grapes and wine see as the best vintage in our career. That said, yields are bit down from average, which is typically a good thing for quality, but more importantly, a great thing for the oversupply of import wines and lower quality domestic wines that are currently oversaturated. Could it be a win/win, brining supply closer to balance and a phenomenal vintage? All signs are pointing to this being the case and should bring a smile to everyone’s face.”

Wine volume sales have been down for the industry. How have you been able to counter this movement?

JW: “We have been very fortunate to be in the luxury wine world with people drinking less, but drinking better at Copper Cane. While internally by dollars and volume we are growing over last year and previous years, we are far exceeding the general market wine. It’s tough out there for many small producers and growers with the uncertainty of the economy, wine consumption trends changing, interest rates, etc. The industry is feeling a pinch and I hope the consumers are able to rally around the family-owned and operated wineries out there because they are the ones brining innovation and character into this wonderful business. On the Copper Cane side, we have innovated a bit with new brands, like Threadcount, hosting a Paso Robles Cabernet, a Sauvignon Blanc and a Red Blend. The wines are intended to bring luxury to everyday life and they are doing just that.”

And what about established brands such as Belle Glos, Quilt, Elouan and Boen?

JW: “They continue to grow by executing the basics of quality, price, provenance, and a rich story. Where we have really focused is in marketing in ways not typical for the wine business. Partnerships that are meaningful to us, like the USO, stadiums like Petco Park where there was a market for fine wine, but no offerings, and social media where we are letting our hair down and brining the realities of wine to a broad audience. I’m @joethewinemaker on Instagram and tiktok, by the way.”

Tell us more about those partnerships.

JW: “We are definitely out of the box with our approach—which is one of the perks of being a small, family owned and operated winery. We are now partnering with the USO. My eldest daughter graduated this past year and joined the Marines, a dream she has had since she was 12 or so. I’m so immensely proud of her for following her dreams and defending our great nation. To be able to support such an organization of which many friends and family have benefited from is an honor for me. We have also expanded our partnerships with some of our favorite [sports] teams throughout the nation. Apparently, there was a demand for luxury wine at these venues and we took the risk to try it out. We look at it as a way to spread the joy of fine wine further, our partners see it as an elevation of their venue, and the customers have better options that suit their palate.”

What’s new with Copper Cane this fall? What should visitors be aware of if they’re heading to Napa during harvest?

JW: “Downtown Napa is all the rage right now. After decades of plans coming to fruition, it is the best launching off and landing point for a visit to Napa. You can enjoy the wines and vines during the day up-valley, then return to a mini-metropolitan area with more tasting rooms, nice hotels, retail and wonderful restaurants. We saw this trend a few years back, and invested in downtown and we just opened our Quilt & Co. tasting room, serving wines exclusive to the place and some great small bites. It’s also the only tasting room with a rooftop bar. Come and enjoy it along with all of downtown.”

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