I’ve spent more than a decade living in Montréal, and I’ve learned that everyone in this city loves to eat. So do I.
Any restaurant or cafe can have a lineup out the door – and not just the hottest or most beloved spots. There is a profusion of things to try in Montréal that you won’t find anywhere else. Like Montréal-style bagels and smoked meat brought over by Jewish immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. And Portuguese piri piri chicken, which landed following the Expo ‘67 World Fair. And, of course, French-Canadian poutine – golden fries and squeaky cheese curds smothered in savory gravy – in all its many wild and tasty iterations. No wonder gourmets from around the world flock here for a fix of flavor.
Every Montréaler has their favorite eating spots. Here are mine.
Breakfast
Brunch is a full-contact sport in Montréal, with dozens of restaurants around the city showcasing dizzyingly long lineups on any given Sunday. Whatever you do, make sure your breakfast includes a Montréal-style bagel – a light, sesame-covered circle of joy usually served sliced with cream cheese and lox (a special kind of smoked salmon). For me (as well as for Montréal legend Leonard Cohen, who lived across the street), Bagel Etc. has fluffy Fairmount bagels that make it a go-to. That said, I recently tried Arthur’s Nosh Bar in Saint-Henri, and the syrniki cottage-cheese pancakes there almost made me want to forgo my beloved bagel. Almost.
If you want to skip the lines, or at least the slow-moving kind, grab a steaming-hot bagel and container of cream cheese straight from the oven at either of the two iconic Mile End bagel factories: St-Viateur Bagel or Fairmount Bagel.
Coffee
One of the things I miss most about Montréal when I’m out of the city is its cafe culture. Everywhere you look, hip spots are serving fantastic coffee and mouthwatering pastries that…(okay, I’m stepping out to one right now).
Coffee purists who actually know the meaning of buzzwords like “third wave,” “fair trade” and “organic” won’t be hurting for a cup – the app Th3rdwave maintains a solid list and allows you to collect points to redeem for free drinks. I’m personally more into vibes – and Le Dépanneur Cafe in the Mile End neighborhood, where musicians play chill music all day long, has them in spades. Crew Café in the Square Victoria area is my second-favorite – it’s housed in the middle of an ornate former bank building and might just be the prettiest coffee shop I’ve ever seen.
Lunch
Schwartz’s Deli remains the iconic spot for Montréal-style smoked meat – slices of brisket piled high and squished between two slices of rye. But if you want to avoid the lines and eat alongside locals, I’d suggest Snowdon Deli. Just do you homework about where to seek out your Montréal smoked meat, as not all places do it well.
For a terrific, vegetarian-friendly sandwich, head to Santropol near McGill University and try the Duluth – caramelized onions with honey, pear slices, cheddar cheese and arugula between two thick slices of pumpernickel bread.
Poutine is Québec’s official dish, and I’d point visitors toward ordering a portion from a casse-croûte (snack shack) alongside a country road or in the provincial capital. That said, you can still find a tasty plate in the big city at La Banquise or Ma Poule Mouillée, which covers its poutine in spicy Portuguese chicken. Pro tip: take your poutine from either to-go for a picnic in nearby Parc La Fontaine.
Aperitivo
Speaking of parks, Montréal has some great ones – Laurier, La Fontaine, Jarry, Jeanne-Mance and many more – and you’re allowed to drink alcohol alfresco as long as you’re seated at a picnic table and are taking a substantial meal (think baguette and cheese rather than a bag of chips). So buy a bottle of wine, some charcuterie and crusty bread and park yourself for a perfect afternoon of people-watching.
Or grab a seat on a terrasse – Montréal-speak for a restaurant or bar patio that sprawls onto the street as soon as warm weather hits. Some of my favorite terrasses are at craft breweries Dispensaire on rue Prince-Arthur and Messorem near the Lachine Canal. If cocktails and wine are more your jam, Le Majestique has a special place in my heart – or perhaps that’s the lingering taste of its amazing foot-long gourmet hotdog.
Dinner
With more than 4000 restaurants in Montréal, picking the best is no easy feat. Yet Damas, a longstanding Syrian restaurant with a splurge-y tasting menu and wine pairings might just take the baklava – or so I hear, as its price point is a bit beyond my current budget. (I’m great company for anyone who wants to treat, by the way.) A newer candidate might be Vin Mon Lapin, a natural wine and small plates restaurant that was named Canada’s best restaurant by the publication Canada’s 100 Best.
Sushi Momo is one of my personal favorites: its plant-based sushi (yes, really) is as good if not better than the real deal. I also love the coziness of a pizza and a glass of natural wine at Elena.
Bar
My favorite neighborhood Montréal bar is Else’s. It’s got everything I want in a drinking hole: hip locals, intimate lighting, trippy decor, stiff drinks, fun-loving staff and the best carrot cake I’ve ever eaten. (Please don’t spread the word too far; I don’t want it to get too popular.)
If you’re trying to impress a date, check out Bar George, whose elaborate Anglophilic decor might help you understand why French Canadians resented the British so much. If you’re just looking for a dive bar to chill and chat with locals over a few beers, it’s got to be writer Mordecai Richler’s haunt, Grumpys.
Cheers – and bon appétit.