Lonely Planet’s publicity and marketing coordinator, Aoife Breslin, recently traveled through Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. Here, she shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.
Having previously visited some of Croatia’s more popular destinations, like Split and Dubrovnik, I was eager to see more of the country and seek out experiences beyond the well-trodden paths. And while I didn’t want to miss the big-hitters like Diocletian’s Palace and Split’s Old Town, I also managed to get a genuine glimpse into Croatian culture and traditions through exploring. From quaint rural villages like Žrnovo to almost-secluded islands like Vrnik, I savored home-cooked meals in family-run tavernas, explored ancient ruins and natural landscapes, and learned about traditions from the locals.
Where did you stay? And what was the vibe?
While traveling along the Dalmatian Coast with its dramatic landscapes of rugged cliffs and crystal clear waters, I was fortunate to stay in three stunning hotels that each offered unique experiences. My journey began in Split, where I checked into the Briig-Boutique Hotel, a stylish 4-star establishment just steps away Split’s Old Town.
Next, I stayed at the Aminess Liburnia Hotel in the island of Korčula. Standing on the balcony I was met with the sounds of crashing waves and spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. Located a mere 10-minute walk along the beachfront to Korčula’s Old Town, the central location is a huge convenience while staying on the island.
Saving the best for last, the Bluesun Berulia Hotel in Makarska Riviera delivered a luxurious 5-star experience, with helpful staff, an incredible spa and wellness center, and a number of top-of-the-range dining areas. Located on the ground floor, my room featured a swim-up pool, while other rooms in the hotel offered views of the sea. Situated along the pebbly seaside in Brela, the hotel is ideally positioned for exploring the Makarska Riviera, with a scenic boardwalk stretching all the way from Brela to Makarska town.
What was the most under-the-radar activity you enjoyed?
There is no better feeling than stumbling across a hidden gem, and that is exactly how I felt while visiting Eko Škoj, an eco-farm producing olive oil in the village of Žrnovo on Korčula Island.
Surrounded by mountains, vineyards and olive groves, the setting was perfect for this family-run business. Eko Škoj offers olive oil tasting sessions, and I enjoyed delicious organic cuisine beneath the shade of lush olive trees. The guided tour of the groves and pressing facilities provided insights into the olive oil production process, which Croatia is renowned for.
Best thing you ate?
As I have a sweet tooth, I have to say torta makarana, a traditional Croatian dessert that hails from Makarska. The staff at Tavern Kalalarga in Makarska insisted I try it, and I am so glad they did. Dating back centuries, torta makarana is a cake-like dessert that features almonds, citrus, rose oil, and vanilla, creating a sweet but tangy taste.
The fresh scorpion fish at Konoba Ivandica Dvori deserves a mention too, complemented by amazing service and an unbeatable view of the sunset over the mountains. This gem of a restaurant is located in the old part of Brela in a building that dates back to 1880 and is protected as a historical monument.
What was the most touristy thing you did?
I’m torn between a guided tour of Diocletian’s Palace in Split and the Skywalk in Biokovo National Park Makarska, both deemed touristy experiences, but exceptional all the same.
On a previous trip, I had done a self-guided tour of Diocletian’s Palace. This time, I went on a tour with a local guide, Dino Ivancic, who enriched my understanding of the site’s rich history, making it feel like a new experience. Dino provided insights into Diocletian’s life and how the palace has been used through the centuries, even being featured in the TV series Game of Thrones. The vibrant palace, partially integrated into Split’s Old Town, is like a living museum. You can catch singers performing Croatian folk music in the Vestibule and explore indoor markets, cafes and boutiques nestled within its ancient walls.
The Biokovo Skywalk is worth doing if you’re seeking a thrilling outdoor adventure. With its glass bridge perched 1228m (4028ft) above sea level, it’s not for the faint-hearted, but the panoramic views of the islands and beyond, including a glimpse of Italy on clear days, are absolutely worth it. Accessible by foot, bike, or vehicle from Biokovo Nature Park‘s entrance, about 6km (3.7 miles) east of Makarska, the road leads to Sv. Jure, the highest peak at 1762m (5780ft). This is Croatia’s highest paved road and one of my most favorite views in the region.
Favorite activity from the trip?
Kayaking with Korčula Outdoor was undoubtedly a highlight of my trip, an adventure that perfectly combined sightseeing and history. The crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic and the surrounding mountains were an idyllic backdrop for our 30-minute kayak over to Vrnik island, home to some of Croatia’s most beautiful pebbled beaches and secluded sea coves. Along the way, we stopped to learn from a local archaeologist about a submerged Neolithic stone road discovered off Korčula in 2023, believed to date back 7000 years.
Upon arriving on the rocky shoreline of Vrnik, the island initially appeared almost deserted, with only a few families residing there. On a guided tour, we learned about the island’s history in quarrying before visiting Vrnik Arts Club for lunch. This is one of the few guest houses on the island, and after touring the premises, it struck me as the perfect getaway for a super secluded break.
Aoife Breslin visited Croatia at the invitation of the Croatia Tourist Board. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies for positive coverage.