After a year of jumping back in the world, I reached out to many of the old and new faces I’d encountered along the way for an end-of-year-round-up looking forward, instead of back. I asked: what wines (or sake!) do you want to drink more of in 2023? I got a slew of responses, proving more than ever, the great big wide world of wine continues its expansion into the farthest corners and minds of the country.
Read on and be inspired.
Morgan LaCroix, Wine Director, Twin Farms, Barnard, VT
“I have been excited by wines from producers working with non-traditional/non-international varieties in areas that have always been best known for them. One producer I have been enjoying is Unico Zelo, they work with native Italian grapes in South Australia, the land of Shiraz. I particularly enjoy their Jade & Jasper Fiano and Cherry Fields Dolcetto; I look forward to more winemakers exploring even further outside the box in terms of what can be grown and makes sense for their terroir. Also, alpine whites, such as wines from Savoie and Switzerland, I think these are starting to fill the space made by the warming/broadening of Sancerre and I am excited to see more being imported.”
Suzanne DeStio, Head Sommelier The Modern, New York City
“Every time I get the question, “what do you like to drink,” my most and least fancy self fight for their own answer. My highbrow heart says Champagne, one of my first wine loves. I gravitate toward styles that drink somewhat like great still wine, with softer bubbles and extended lees aging. Champagne Corbon and Pascal Doquet are producers that make me want to celebrate every day with Champagne in 2023. Then my most down-to-earth self chimes in and answers, literally whatever is delicious and drinkable NOW. After having the privilege to taste some of the most serious wines from legendary regions day in and day out for work, I crave things like Sandlands Cinsault, and Nanclares y Prieto Albariño in my spare time. Juicy, mineral, crushable wines that often happen to be affordable. I look forward to many more of these well made, “don’t have to think about it,” yet inarguably delicious bottles in the new year.”
Justin Moore, Master Sommelier and Wine Director for Roses’ Restaurant Group Pineapple and Pearl, Little Pearl, Roses Luxury, Roses at Home in Washington D.C.
“In 2023 my goal is to seek out, share and consume “well made” wine. That should be easier than it sounds but what the average consumer, and even the above average sommelier, consider “well made” wine is a blurred line today. The world has been flooded with natural wine and pet-nats that are trying harder to be cool than delicious. It seems like every month some overnight “cult” producer releases a barely consumable wine with a kitschy label and it suddenly becomes allocated. You can keep it. Funky, low sulfur, hazy wine can be enjoyable from time to time, but rarely qualify as well made. So, what is a well made wine? It’s one that you want a second or third glass of. It’s one that has finished fermentation and may not become a science experiment once in a bottle. Every wine has a place, it just may not be in your glass.”
Russell Senser, Sommelier, Enchantment Resort, Sedona, Arizona
“It’s an exhilarating time to explore and drink Arizona wines in 2023, especially with the newly-designated Verde Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) in our very own backyard, offering higher elevation wines that are structured and vivacious. At Enchantment Resort, we have an array of textural whites from both Verde Valley AVA, as well as from Southern Arizona Wine Country in both Sonoita and Willcox. We also have our very own version of Southwest Rhone Rangers that has become a big hit with expressions of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, which tend to appeal to a wide range of palates. Personally, I have an affinity towards the wines of Caduceus Cellars in Jerome, Arizona, and always love supporting the student-run estate vineyard project, the Southwest Wine Center at Yavapai College in Prescott.”
Élyse Lambert, Master Sommelier and Sommelier Consultant for The Ritz-Carlton, Naples, Naples, FL
“When people ask me what I would like to drink in 2023, my motto is ‘less is more’. What I mean by that is, drinking less but drinking more wine of greater quality; wines that have a sense of place and are made with more attention to our planet. As we look to reopen The Ritz-Carlton, Naples, it will be time for celebration and there’s no better way than to do so with Champagne in the brand new, sophisticated Champagne Bar. There’s no question high quality sparkling wines have been trending in the last few years and this will continue in 2023. Fresh, with low dosage, rosé, vintage, pick your favorites. Served at the perfect temperature and in proper glassware, I will be drinking the best with no compromise and I can’t wait to share a glass with our guests and loved ones.”
Cesar Noble-Medina, Beverage Director, Thompson Washington DC
“I am looking forward to tasting what Rioja will release in 2023. For me, that is the region of Spain where tradition meets modernism. Most producers have been working the vineyards since the late 1800 and their wines are an authentic expression of their heritage and their people. In particular, Bodegas López de Heredia produces Viña Gravonia which is their white wine (Viura grape varietal), and Viña Cubillo, one of their Reserva wines. As most of their wines are held up to an extremely rigorous quality standard, their release is limited every year. In the wine world, rare and limited tend to attract people. At Thompson Washington DC, our wine list resembles those rare finds mixed with industry standards wines that are crowd-pleasers.”
Kendra Robinson, Director of Outlets, Sagamore Pendry Baltimore, Baltimore, MD
“Next year one of the things I am the most excited about is drinking wines made by strong, female wine producers. It’s wonderful to see them break into regions that have always traditionally been dominated by men. Elizabeth Foradori, is a natural winemaker known as “The Lady of Teroldego” in natural wine circles and beyond. The Foradori Teroldego Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2020 is as interesting on the nose as it is the palate; with slight notes of sulfur and a flavor profile that presents impeccable freshness with a silky smooth finish. She never disappoints with delicious, relatable, unique wines.
Another highlight on our menu is the Istine Chianti Classico, which is pristine in every vintage. This remarkable organic wine is drastically different from the Foradori, showing a different take on female winemaking excellence. Angelia Fronti, is one of the very few female Italian winemakers in Tuscany. This Sangiovese, offered on our by the glass selection, is an approachable staple whether you’re looking for a glass at the bar to a perfect pairing with our Italian inspired menu.”
Felix Fernandez, Beverage Director + Sommelier, Chatham Inn, Relais & Châteaux, Chatham, MA
Felix has worked as a Mixologist and Bartender for over a decade and has been Chatham Inn, Relais & Châteaux’s professional Sommelier for two years.
“In 2023, I’m most particularly excited for the future of Willamette Valley Wines located in the Pacific Northwest region of Oregon. Such sophistication is arising from the area, especially in the pinot noir viticulture. In this region, the Chehalem Mountains excite me the most, offering such complexity in wine profile, with loads of red fruit and a fantastic floral bouquet. On the palate, it shows some pleasant boldness for a light bodied wine. Lovely for such a young area of American wine making, and definitely a region to keep your eye out for in the new year!”
Mal Jones, Partner Curated Selections Wine Distributors, Charleston, SC
“Wines from high elevation vineyards. As the heat summations for many wine growing areas continue to rise, grapes that were once thought to be planted at too high an elevation are now showing they can ripen and show depth of flavor. I especially love the wines from Le Ragnaie in Montalcino. In addition to their single vineyard Brunello’s, they produce a wonderful everyday drinking Sangiovese Grosso called Troncone that comes from fruit grown above the regulated elevation zone for Brunello. It’s aged in old Slovenian Oak and expresses wonderful sour cherry and balsamic notes. These high elevation vineyards were once dismissed by the old guard in Montalcino but now big players like Gaja are buying up neighboring hillsides to plant vines. Le Ragnaie was ahead of the curve.”
Derrin Abac, Advanced Sommelier, Food & Beverage Director, Hotel Wailea, Wailea, HI
“I’m looking forward to enjoying more of the classics, which I feel have been left out in recent years due to so many up-and-coming regions coming onto the scene. For example, Bordeaux is a classic region that embodies some great fruit characteristics. I love the secondary notes of smoked meats, rosemary, thyme and graphite. I’m also looking forward to drinking more champagnes from smaller producers like Paul Bara, Marc Hebrart and Pierre Péters that have great mineral complexity, weight, texture and acid balance – and they pair with virtually anything. Looking ahead to next summer spending nights around the fire and grilling meats, nothing beats an incredible bottle of Côte-Rôtie – specifically the Jamet with its peppery, savory, dried fruit characteristics all wrapped with a plush dark fruit flavor. Makes me hungry just thinking about it. At Hotel Wailea, our guests can look forward to a wide selection of all of the above next year.”
Erica Ruiz, Sommelier (Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence), Château du Sureau, Oakhurst, CA
“I’m super excited to drink and pair some Rioja wine next year. One of my favorite producers is Muga. Their gran reserva is top notch. I love the aromatic whites from Rioja as well. The wines are so unique and great for pairings. You can be sure to see some new Spanish wines on my list in 2023.”
Peyton Walston, Sake Sommelier, Hai Hospitality, Austin, TX
“I’m looking forward to hopefully traveling to Japan in the new year and seeing exactly where the industry has landed post-2020, but there are some places I’m looking towards in 2023. Hokkaido, the most northern prefecture in Japan, has been gaining more popularity as global temperatures rise as well. Once an inhospitable environment for growing rice, farmers are now making their way up there to take advantage of the warmer weather and vast lands take advantage of. Besides trying to find the silver lining in a tragic inevitability, I’m also looking forward to the younger generation of toji and kurabito. Heiwa brewery in Wakayama, won brewery of the year in 2020 and has continued to produce beautiful sake since. Their toji is only 29 years old, which by Japanese toji standards, is extremely young. Heiwa and Akabu brewery in Iwate are labels to look for in 2023. It’s refreshing to see breweries who are looking to make positive changes in the industry while preserving the traditions that matter; like making delicious sake.”
Joe Baumgardner, Sommelier & Cellar Master, Rancho Bernardo Inn, San Diego, CA
Joe Baumgardner achieved the Sommelier Diploma from the International Sommelier Guild in 2008 and has been bringing new wines and pairings to the table at AVANT (Rancho Bernardo Inn’s signature restaurant) since October 2015.
“In 2023, I will be popping the bubbly all year. I especially love introducing my friends to the great Italian Franciacorta and other sparkling wines from around the world. Bubbles are no longer just for special occasions. As wine drinkers add sparkling wine to their regular rotation, bubbles from outside of Champagne, like French Cremant and Spanish Cava, will find their place more frequently on the table.”
Jaime Smith, Sommelier Le Clou and The Sommelier Brain Collective, Washington, D.C.
“Looking forward to drink? I’m a taster more than a drinker, an incurable flavor junkie; I always am looking to taste as much as I can. I never turn down a taste and I can easily try 100 wines a day. This leads me to things I never think about, I am never focused on and allows me to find the global palate of where things are at the current moment. What’s fashionable these days in other places, I ask? Show me everything! I want to know.
For styles, I’m leaning into light, fresh, concrete aging; for grapes, I’m appreciate the attention being given to marginal grapes like Trousseau, Lagrein, Posip, Mission, to name a few.
Jonathan Feiler, Group Wine Director, Ocean House Collection (Ocean House & Weekapaug Inn), Westerly, RI
“I am excited to share the 2020 vintage of Burgundy with our guests. 2020 was a challenging year in many ways for Burgundy, being that the region had a hot and dry year and harvested their wines very early in the season. However, despite this otherwise atypical vintage, many of the wines are showing classic aromas, flavors, and texture with the added feature of being what I call a “Restaurant wines or vintage” where they drink well young, out of the bottle without having to age for a long period of time before enjoying with a meal.”
Loris Jones-Randolph, Sommelier Manager at La Boucherie, InterContinental Los Angeles Downtown, Los Angeles, CA
“I’m in love with Timorasso. It’s an Italian grape that comes from the Colli Tortonese and dates back to the Roman Empire. It’s a survivor and with the help of great wine producers like Walter Massa, it’s making a comeback. From fun and fresh stone fruits and white flowers to complex petroleum notes and delicious nutty almonds, Timorasso is a grape that does what fine wines do best, showcase the terroir. Timorasso is grown by some big Barolo makers but its home in the Colli Tortonese produces some incredible cru wines from names like Ezio Poggio. When I visited his winery, I had a new sparkling Timorasso that I’m excited to share with guests at La Boucherie in Intercontinental Los Angeles Downtown very soon!”
Christopher Roberts, Certified Sommelier, Director of Food & Beverage, The Chanler at Cliff Walk, Newport, RI
“For 2023, plans include to open up Provence-centric rosé fans to the vast world of alternate rosé varietals and styles and enjoy the ride of enlightenment as well. Seeking out classic wines that are typically overlooked and overshadowed by a more popular varietal or type of wine, like pinot noir from Sancerre and New Zealand, amazing Madeiras in place of Port, East Coast sauvignon blanc. Portuguese wines are also a focus for me and our team. With a personal affinity for their whites, reds and certainly a full range of port options, as well a strong local population. It’s a category that deserves attention on our list. It’s a country that mirrors Italy in its ability to have a wine/varietal for nearly every situation or culinary pairing opportunity that may present itself across all our dining options from family style dining in our Yurts to our Chef’s Table.”
Alan Marquez, Sommelier/ Food and Beverage Manager, Alila Marea Beach Resort, San Diego, CA
“Our cuisine at Alila Marea is based on fresh ingredients with a combination of spices and techniques that leans towards wines of freshness to compliment. I love the wines of Europe but I truly have been excited about domestic producers who are championing purity of fruit, freshness, and less oak to give an overall expression of how amazing different varieties can be in California. Producers such as Alice Anderson of Amvive, Mike and Gina Giugni of Scar of the Sea, and Eric and Lyle from Railsback Freres who are all making wines that are vibrant and alive!”
Kevin Sutherland, Vineyard Manager/Winemaker, The Inn at Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards, Bristol, VA
“We are very excited about our wines here at Nicewonder Farms & Vinyeards being released in 2023. Our 2021 Red blend is still in the barrels and ageing very nice. In 2022 with our large harvest of Merlot along with our Red production we decided to produce two different Rose’s. One was produced with some skin contact time, light pink in color. The other was produced by Whole cluster pressing with no skin contact time, pale straw in color. This new one is very different from a traditional Rose’ and is showing very well. We are looking forward to sharing this wine in 2023.”
Francisca Wallace & Seth O’Donovan, Wine Team, Dunton Hot Springs, Dunton, CO
“This year we’re looking forward to tasting with some deeper learning from the historical classics that teaches us about our practice for the future. We are curious about diving into old world regional wine law and drinking a lot of wine from regions that exclusively dry-farm. Conversations about water access are on all of our minds – especially in Colorado – and we believe wine is first & foremost about viticulture, so we’d love to be seeing what we can learn about wine from a dry-farming approach and also what it might teach us about our own U.S. viticulture and regions.”
Mark Bright, Wine Director / Partner for 13 years, Saison Hospitality Group, San Francisco, CA
“I think one of the most exciting regions that have really stepped up in the quality of wines are those produced in Beaujolais. The Gamay grape is making a huge comeback in price points and wines that are made to challenge the famous Pinot Noir from the north in Cote de Beaune.”