These are unusual times, and the state of affairs can change quickly. Please check the latest travel guidance before making your journey. Note that our writer visited pre-pandemic.
Where hipsters, drag queens, hippies and families blend into a happy urban whole
Is there anywhere else in the UK where a skateboarding Jack Russell or an over-rouged octogenarian in tatty black Edwardian clothes would seem just a part of ordinary everyday life? In Brighton, the annual naked bike ride raises a cheer rather than a jeer, and nobody gives a fig when the bearded young man in fishnets and tartan mini flashes a cheeky twirl. Brighton has colour and character in droves, and it’s hard not to be wooed by its inclusive impulsive vibe.
Of course history has played a part in the city’s offbeat character: Victorian sea bathers, ‘Prinny’ and the Indo-Chinese extravaganza of his Royal Pavilion, 1950s theatre luvvies and Graham Greene’s portrayal of its seedy underbelly have all shaped the anything-goes Brighton of today. To get the best sense of its alternative vibe, factor in leisurely strolls through villagey Kemptown, hip Seven Dials, and the colourfully boho streets of North Laine.
48 hours in . . . Brighton
Day one
MORNING
Begin your day by mingling with Brighton’s hipsters and hippies among the indie shops of North Laine. It’s just downhill from the railway station and Snooper’s Paradise (01273 602558) in Kensington Gardens is particularly fab for retro flea market finds. Fancy a cool Sixties look? Jump the Gun (01273 626333) in Gardner Street sells the best in snazzy Mod gear, and from here, the dazzling Royal Pavilion (4/5 Pavilion Buildings; 03000 290900) is only five minutes’ walk away. Topping the bill inside is the dragon-festooned scarlet and gold music room, and the ‘Princess and the Pea’ multi-mattress bed upstairs. It’s also got a great little gift shop for original presents.
Hungry? If it’s Friday, make a beeline for Street Diner in Brighthelm Gardens on Queens Road. Here, you’ll find the hottest street food in the South, including filipino noodles, yummy Turkish boreks and falafels, and gobstopper burgers and burritos.
Credit:
adam bronkhorst
AFTERNOON
Next up, it’s got to be the beach – and no worries if the weather is unseasonal. A cobweb-blowing walk along the promenade is hugely atmospheric (check out those dramatic waves hitting the sea groins) and once dusk settles, watch the starlings zooming around in a dreamy cloud formation over the ruined West Pier.
Brighton’s beaches have acquired a hip new look in recent months, with newcomers like pop-up food market, Shelter Hall (Kings Road Arches) offering a line-up of local food, craft beers, cakes and live music within an attractively converted Edwardian rotunda. Or why not book a sauna or a steam on the pebbles, followed by a dip in the briny? Perfect for a mates get-together, Beach Box Spa (299 Madeira Drive BN2 1EN; 07846 908256) has a clutch of mobile saunas housed in converted horse boxes. You can also pre-order ice baths, clay masks and massage leaf whisks.
Alternatively, simply stroll along the stretch, stopping at artisanal bakers, The Flour Pot (Kings Road Arches, 85-90), and enjoy the sight of Brighton at play: everything from skateboarders and volleyball enthusiasts, to hula-hoop champs and salsa dancers.
Time now for a 20-minute pod ride in the skies on the British Airways i360 (Lower Kings Road). On a clear day the views over the city’s rooftops and back gardens towards the Downs and Seven Sisters cliffs are Instagram gold. On certain dates, you can book a Nyetimber Sparkling Wine Tasting Flight, or, as a whacky alternative to the gym, a Yoga in the Sky session.
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This content is subject to copyright./Andrew Small / EyeEm
LATE
As for your drinks, you’re spoilt for choice in Brighton – the city majors on cool cocktail bars and snug, eccentric little pubs. Near the West Pier is The Queensbury Arms (Queensbury Mews; 01273 328159). Blink and you’d miss this, the smallest pub in Brighton. Fondly known as ‘The Hole in the Wall’, it’s friendly, camp and incredibly cosy. It’s also where Sir Laurence Olivier would escape his fans for a quiet drink among pals.
If you’re after a trendier vibe, Clubhouse Brighton at The Artist Residence hotel (34 Regency Square; 01273 855572) is where you’ll find groovy sounds, cocktails with a healthy twist (think Beet Collins or Carrot Sours), and a cheery mob of locals.
Afterwards, dine at Murmur (91-96 King’s Road Arches; 01273 711900) on the seafront where award-winning chef Michael Bremner magics up fishy treats such as lobster croquettes, clams with chorizo or chermoula silver mullet, from his atmospheric base in one of the converted boat builders’ arches.
Day two
Morning
Dawdle through the cobbled alleyways of The Lanes. Originally the city’s fishing village from which Brighton evolved, these Dickensian walkways are now given over to jewellers and antique shops. Some lanes are so narrow you’ll rub shoulders with fellow gawkers, but this historic area is worth an exploration, particularly those alleys that encircle Meeting House Lane. Alternatively, join a Blue Badge guide on a Secrets of the Lanes Walking Tour by Only in Brighton (info@onlyinbrighton.co.uk) for scoops on smugglers, local riots, Victorian sea bathing and where to find Brighton’s oldest pub.
You’re not far from Boyce’s Street here, so pop into The Coal Shed (8 Boyce’s St; 01273 322998) where scrummy Sunday sharing roasts of 35-day aged beef come with all the trimmings. They also do a good value midday lunch for £10.95.
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Photographer Paul Winch-Furness/Photographer Paul Winch-Furness
Afternoon
Work off lunch with a walk along the promenade heading east, and if you’ve children in tow, stop off at Sea Life Brighton (Marine Parade; 01273 647708). This is the world’s oldest operating aquarium, and it’s stuffed with exotic fish such as an octopus called Pumpkin and Pacific sea nettle jellyfish. Book ahead for the exclusive ‘behind the scenes’ tour where experts guide you around their working quarters.
Villagey Kemptown is next – the heart of the city’s LGBT+ community. It’s a pretty district of grand Regency Squares (look out for the Blue Plaque homes of theatre greats) and seaside cottages. In between you’ll find flea markets, tattoo parlours, laid-back coffee houses and quirky pubs. Browse its streets for bric-a-brac emporia and quirky delis, then meander majestic Sussex Square, Arundel Terrace or Lewes Crescent.
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© Zac Macaulay MMXII/Zac Macaulay
LATE
If you’re only a wee bit hungry, Isaac At (2 Gloucester Street; 07765 934740) is ideal for dinner – the low-mileage set menu dishes are small, the flavours zingy and the creations mind-blowingly original. Booking is essential. If it’s Sunday however, you can’t beat some fine pub grub. Try The Basketmakers (12 Gloucester Road; 01273 689006); it’s buzzy, with dozens of whiskies, ales and craft beers alongside Sussex fish and meat dishes.
Finish with a show. Big-name musicians and comics such as Eddie Izzard, Nish Kumar, and Russel Kane have all performed at the Dome (Church Street; 01273 709709), or if live music, alternative magic or cabaret in an intimate setting is more your thing, check out The Latest Music Bar (14-17 Manchester Street; 01273 687171) for everything from swing and rock, to ska and reggae.
Where to stay . . .
Luxury Living
The Grand is located between Brighton pier and the ruined west pier in a position that affords it uninterrupted ocean views. Aside from its fabulous location, highlights include the tasteful, Art Deco-inspired bedrooms, an exquisite spa and significant culinary achievements at its fish restaurant, GB1.
Doubles from £100. 97-99 Kings Road; 01273 224300
Boutique Bolthole
The fabulous boutique Drakes Hotel is said to be a favourite of Cate Blanchett’s, and a seaside pad for both Kylie Minogue and Woody Allen. It spans two late-Georgian townhouses almost opposite the pier, and is packed with gorgeous bedrooms and Art Deco-style detailing alongside a cool cocktail bar and restaurant.
Doubles from £140. 43-44 Marine Parade; 01273 696934
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Julia Claxton/Julia Claxton
Budget Beauty
You need to be a fan of Art Deco to enjoy Paskins Brighton. Though generally small in size, many of the rooms feature Art Deco wallpaper, 1920s junk shop finds, and period furniture. Breakfast is a highlight with homemade vegan sausages and veggie fritters, as well as organic meat, eggs and tomatoes from local farms.
Doubles from £75. 18-19 Charlotte Street; 01273 601203
What to bring home . . .
Stop by Pecksniff’s (45-46 Meeting House Lane; 01273 723292) to pick up perfumes, shower gels and bespoke blends from Brighton’s very own fragrance makers.
You should also make time for a visit to Julien Plumart (48 Queens Road; 01273 777412) for a box of fresh cream macarons in rainbow colours – they are some of the best you’ll ever taste.
When to go . . .
Brighton is a fiercely all-season city. Of course it can be packed on a hot summer’s day – but come the shoulder seasons, the crowds thin and the locals take back their town. Join them snacking and slurping on Sussex treats at the April and September Brighton and Hove Food and Drink Festival.
December can be wonderfully atmospheric – the wind-whipped seafront exudes a moody charm of its own, and starlings rise in a black cloud above the ruined West Pier. At weekends throughout December you can trawl the ever-expanding Christmas Artists Open Houses Festival – a perfect opportunity to snoop around those Regency homes, enjoy mulled wine and pick out a handmade present or two.
Above all, don’t miss a visit in May when the celebrated Brighton Festival, the largest multiform art festival in England, takes over the town – though thankfully, not to the point of bursting its seams.
Know before you go . . .
Essential Information
Brighton’s Tourist Information Office
Address: Town Hall, Bartholomew Square, Brighton BN1 1JA
Contact: 01273 290337
Author bio
Louise has never regretted moving to this fun-fuelled city since she did 23 years ago. Her favourite pastimes include people watching at Pavilion Gardens Café and out-of-season seaside walks.