Giving Cinderella Her Due: A Look At Cabernet Franc

“Cab Franc is the ultimate Cinderella grape,” exclaims Leah Jørgensen, owner and winemaker of Jørgensen Cellars in Willamette Valley. “Historically, in Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot got all the attention, while Cab Franc was the one who did all the work. The truth is she’s the belle of the ball.”

While its hard to imagine the parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carménère being underappreciated, Cabernet Franc is often overlooked by wine lovers. Yet, it remains a secret weapon of wine makers. It’s time to start pay attention to Cabernet Franc.

As a blending grape, Cabernet Franc plays well with others. It delivers high acidity, smooth tannins, and notes of spice and herbs, making it more than capable of taking the lead in blends from Napa Valley and Bordeaux’s Right Bank, most notably in Château Cheval Blanc. Recently, it is making a name for itself as a single variety wine.

Uco Valley is home to Argentina’s top Malbec. However, Gualtallary, within the Tupungato GI, has an ace up its sleeve—Cabernet Franc. “The potential power of Cabernet Franc illustrated through our terroir is best expressed here,” shares Gonzalo Fernandez Gregorat, winemaker of Rutini Wines, who has been producing Cabernet Franc in the region for 20 years. Rodrigo Serrano, winemaker of Domaine Bousquet, attributes the wine’s soft expressions in the mouth to the region’s elevation and alluvial soil. In the hands of the region’s top producers, the grape transforms into the sexy elegance of the Argentine Tango.

Under the Tuscan Sun, Tenute Argentiera’s Ventaglio Vineyard, on their Bolgheri estate, signals a new awakening for the property. Ventaglio, meaning fan, represents the winery’s cru, or best, vineyard. And, it’s all planted with one grape: Cabernet Franc. “Ventaglio is my heart and blood—the place I find a new beginning,” shares owner Stanislaus Turnauer. Produced in small amounts in the best vintages, Ventaglio represents the flagship of Argentiera’s portfolio, taking expectations and understanding of the grape to new heights—a Cru Super Tuscan comprised mainly of Cabernet Franc.  

Napa Valley wineries such as Gamble Family Vineyards, Ehler’s Estate, and Cliff Lede Vineyards produce rich, robust expressions of Cabernet Franc. Chris Tynan, winemaker of Cliff Lede Vineyards, believes Napa hosts the ideal conditions for the grape to ripen “to perfection.” 

Inspired by Right Bank Bordeaux, the Cliff Lede High Fidelity “spotlights the playful symbiosis of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, accentuating their individual layers of complexity.” Jason Lede, hospitality manager of Cliff Lede Vineyards “loves it for its plush, fruit-forward qualities.” Adding, “It’s approachable yet still has incredible concentration.”

Both Leah Jørgensen as well as Alison and Eric Smith Story, owners of Smith Story Wine Cellars in Anderson Valley, find their Cabernet Franc inspiration in France’s Loire Valley. And, both believe the trick to an exceptional glass starts in the vineyard.

To limit the grape’s natural “greenness,” Smith Story carefully monitors the grape, harvesting once a perfectly ripe mid-core is achieved. “Resulting in a vibrancy and a nice lift of acidity at the end is a truly magical sip found in our Smith Story Cabernet Franc,” shares Alison Smith Story.

Adding to this, Jørgensen maintains the timing of leaf removal and irrigation of the vine is key in limiting the wine’s greenness while it ripens. This allows the fruit to shine as the green notes become tertiary, creating a pleasant herbal expression. She also contends, in order to coax out the grape’s fruitiness, new oak should never be used in aging.

Jørgensen sources her Cabernet Franc from Applegate and Rouge Valleys, areas of Southern Oregon containing limestone soil with ancient marine sediments similar to the Loire Valley. Crater View Ranch Vineyards, the source for some of her fruit and a vineyard she believes grows some of the best Cabernet Franc in the world, contains a high concentration of this soil. Because Loire Valley is revered for its expressions of the grape, these soil similarities offer Oregon growers guidance in cultivating the fruit.  

Cabernet Franc’s acidity and tannin structure allows Jørgensen to craft a unique expression—a blanc wine, inspired by former Anne Amie winemaker Thomas Houseman’s L’Iris white Pinot Noir as well as Crémant de Loire sparkling wines. However, she is not making an arbitrary white wine from red grapes. Rather, building on the grape’s structure for intentional symmetry between the white and red wines.  

Lori and Mike Budd, owners of Draceana Wines in Paso Robles, feel in love with Cabernet Franc at first taste many years ago. In 2013, the couple launched their own label with one wine. “After hunting California, we realized there was not a lot of Cab Franc out there. So, we decided to form our own niche with the foundation of the wine we really, really love,” explains Lori Budd.

Today they craft two styles.  A classic multi-site clonal cuvee, and single site and clone reserve expression. “The reserve is mother nature in a glass,” shares Budd. “There are so many different expressions of the grape—there’s a Cab Franc for everyone,” believes Lori Budd.

Surprised a grape with Cabernet Franc’s pedigree did not have its own celebration day, Budd says the “Jersey girl in her” took up the charge to correct this oversight. In 2015, she single-handedly established December 4 as #CabFrancDay.

The date honors Cardinal Richelieu, who is credited with bringing cuttings of the grape to the Loire Valley in the 17^th century. Lore holds he planted the vines at St Nicolas de Bourgueil where it grows to this day. From its humble beginnings, #CabFrancDay is now an international celebration.

While its increasingly easier to find wineries focusing on this grape, it remains underappreciated. “Cabernet Franc is an underdog—it needs to be fought for,” explains Budd. “It delivers so many different expressions. There is a Cab Franc out there for everybody.”

2017 Cliff Lede Vineyards ‘High Fidelity’ Napa Valley ($95) is crafted of 48% Cabernet Franc, 43% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon in a nod to both Right Bank Bordeaux and classic rock n’ roll, in a “Smoke On The Water” sort of way. Notes of black currant, fig jam, black pepper, smoked charcuterie, and fresh tobacco dazzle the senses. Concentrated yet approachable, with a crushed velvet mouth-feel and a long, mouth-watering finish.

2018 Domaine Bousquet GAIA Cabernet Franc Gualtallary Estate Vineyard Uco Valley ($30) represents the first time the wine is produced as 100% varietal. It offers soft aromas of bright fruit, mint, pepper, warm baking spice, and floral notes. Firm, gripping tannins contrast its fruit-forward juiciness and mid-palate minerality. Its broad on the palate with a lingering freshness.

2018 Jørgensen Cellars Mae’s Vineyard Blanc de Cabernet Franc Applegate Valley Oregon ($30) is a stunning wine. Layers of lemon, apricot, and apple are joined by fresh picked savory herbs, fresh white flowers and blossom, white tea, and trailing toasted hazelnuts leap from the glass. Complexity follows through on the palate with rich texture balanced by firm acidity, offering an elegance and mid-palate lift. This wine is a must.

2018 Jørgensen Cellars Cabernet Franc Southern Oregon ($25) follows in the footsteps of the Blanc in that it is layered and complex. Aromas of a dried bouquet leap from the glass of this flagship red wine, followed by delicate berries, warm spice, savory dried herbs, and trailing smoke. Vibrant best describes the palate, its fresh with lots of energy and lift. A steal for the price.

2016 Jørgensen Cellars ‘Clos Rouge Valley’ Reserve Cabernet Franc Southern Oregon ($50) falls to the opposite end of the spectrum, word descriptors do no justice in this distinction. Elegant layers of red floral notes (fresh and dried) mingle with tea, savory herbs, cocoa bitters, and black pepper, but more than the sum of its part, the flavors weave together like a tapestry. With a crushed velvet mouth-feel and linear focus, this medium-bodied wine begs for food.

2018 Ravine Cellars Cabernet Franc Finger Lakes New York ($21.95) is a bold single variety wine. Dark fruit, olive tapenade, dried herbs, fresh tobacco, and trailing pepper elicits the senses. Fine-grained tannins from large cask aging offer a smooth mouth-feel. A fruit-driven plate is juicy yet balanced with earthiness in a full-bodied wine with a long finish.

2016 Smith Story Cabernet Franc Sonoma Valley ($48) is a single variety wine intentionally crafted in an elegant, refined style. It offers bright notes of red and black fruit mingling with fresh herbs, violets, subtle spice, and black tea. The palate is fresh with nice lift and mouthwatering acidity. A food wine in a classic old-world style.

2015 Tenute Argentiera Ventaglio Bolgheri IGT ($300) is the inaugural release. It is crafted of 85% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine stands out for its cru quality: Lush, sultry, layered, complex, and structured. It’s robe of dark fruit, crushed flowers, dried herbs, warm spice, and a cedar, tobacco, mineral earthiness goes on for days on the palate. Long age-ability but hard to resist now.

2018 Zuccardi ‘Poligonos’ San Pablo Cabernet Franc ($30) is located in the center of Uco Valley, in the heart of Tunuyán, a region defined by its close proximity to the Andes Mountains. Winemaker Sebastián Zuccardi vinifies this wine in concrete vats with indigenous yeast. The resulting 100% Cabernet Franc is fresh and lively, with layers of blue and red fruit, dried herbs, and graphite. The palate exhibits tension between its smooth tannins and bold mountain nature, walking a tight-rope between new and old-world styles.