Theresa Heredia, winemaker, Gary Farrell Winery, Healdsburg
Photo courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery
Throughout the world, there are wine districts or regions that are strongly associated with one or two wines. In California, the Russian River Valley appellation is familiar to anyone that knows even a little about Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. There are several dozen excellent producers in this territory that craft exemplary versions of these wines, and the Gary Farrell Winery in Healdsburg is among the finest as well as best-known.
A primary reason for the excellence at Farrell is the fruit. “We have the opportunity to cherry pick the best vineyards from all over Russian River Valley and Sonoma County,” winemaker Theresa Heredia states. “I like to talk about us as sort of on par with a high-end Premier Cru or Grand Cru negociant from Burgundy.”
Heredia has been with the winery since 2012 and currently produces numerous offerings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (as well as a small percentage of Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel); these include Russian River Valley offerings (blends of fruit from several sites), as well as single vineyard wines, with as many as seven Chardonnays and 12 Pinot Noirs, primarily from the Russian River Valley.
Each of these site-specific wines is highly distinctive; for Chardonnay, the wines range from pear, apple and honeysuckle aromas, while the Pinot Noirs run the gamut from black cherry, strawberry and cranberry fragrances with subtle spice notes ensuring great complexity. These truly are among the finest offerings of these varieties not only from a Russian River producer, but from any wine region in California.
I asked Heredia, who had previously made Pinot Noir and Chardonnay at another Sonoma County winery before beginning her work at Farrell, what had she learned working with the beautiful fruit from all these top notch sites in the Russian River Valley and elsewhere in California? I also asked her how she had progressed in her work as an enologist.
“At Gary Farrell, we work with 36 different vineyards, “ she explains. What’s been really eye-opening for me is working not only with different growers and their farming techniques, but the different fruit qualities from those different sites and the different climates from the different grape growing techniques those farmers use.
“So I’ve grown tremendously as a winemaker, not only by working with those different grapes, but working with those people and seeing the different farming techniques.
“In the beginning, I may have disagreed with a certain technique, but who am I to be disagreeing with someone that has been growing grapes for longer than I’ve been alive? That means you have to have faith with these iconic growers who very much know what they are doing.”
Excellent advice from a woman who continues to improve in her work by listening. Given the quality of her work, it’s a lesson we should all learn – especially over a glass of Gary Farrell wine.
Chardonnay
“Russian River Selection” 2017 (Russian River Valley) – Light yellow, aromas of baked apples, Bosc pear and pecan. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Ripe with distinct spicy wood notes (vanilla, and sweet brown spice), this is a forward, very tasty Chardonnay for enjoyment tonight and over the next 2-4 years. Very Good to Excellent
Bacigalupi Vineyard 2017 (Russian River Valley) – Bright yellow; aromas of ripe Bosc pear, lemon custard and notes of honey and orange blossom. Medium-full with very good concentration. Good acidity and complexity, this is appealing now and will drink well over the next 2-3 years. Nicely balanced with a good deal of restraint; although it lacks some persistence. Excellent
Olivet Lane Vineyard 2017 (Sonoma County) – Bright yellow; aromas of ripe red apples, lemon peel and orange zest. Medium-full with very good concentration. Lovely mid-palate, good acidity, beautiful varietal purity, excellent complexity and notable harmony. The finish is lengthy and quite pleasing. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Outstanding
Rochioli-Allen Vineyards 2017 (Russian River Valley) – Bright, light yellow/aromas of lemon peel, grapefruit, golden poppies and hints of vanilla. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Lovely varietal character, very good acidity, lengthy finish with notes of yellow spice. Excellent complexity; this is quite rich on the palate, yet has a lovely elegant feel from start to finish. Enjoy over the next 3-7 years. Outstanding
Pinot Noir
“Russian River Selection” 2017 (Russian River Valley) – Bright young garnet; aromas of bing and maraschino cherry, cardamom and a hint of nutmeg. Medium-full with very good concentration. Excellent varietal character and complexity, lovely spiciness with wood notes and those of nutmeg and clove. Excellent persistence, good acidity and medium-weight, well rounded tannins. Enjoy over the next 3-7 years. Excellent
Martaella Vineyard 2017 (Russian River Valley) – Beautiful delicate garnet color; exquisite aromas of bing cherry, bacon fat and a hint of sweet brown spice. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Beautifuly structured mid-palate, very good acidity, refined, elegant tannins, impeccable harmony and excellent persistence, along with lovely varietal purity. Extremely impressive in its styling and presentation (this is very Pommard-like), this is a gorgeous Pinot Noir for the table tonight (duck breast or sautéed chicken) or for enjoying another 4 or 5 years down the road. Superb
Fort-Ross Vineyard 2017 (Fort-Ross Seaview) – Rich, deep young garnet; aromas of wild raspberry, red poppy and a hint of cumin. Medium-full with very good concentration. Excellent varietal character, good acidity, middle weight tannins and well integrated wood notes. There is a bit of a savory character to this; pair with a range of foods from pheasant to not overly spicy Indian cuisine. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Excellent
Rochioli-Allen Vineyards 2017 (Russian River Valley) – Delicate garnet – beautiful color. Aromas of bing and black cherry, raspberry, cardamom and a hint of oregano. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Ideal ripeness, a rich, well-structured mid-palate, savory varietal character, good acidity, rich tannins and subdued wood notes. Excellent persistence and grip, this has the complexity and structure to improve for another 5-7 years, and drink well for a few more years after that. Superb
Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc “Russian River Selection” 2019 (Russian River Valley) – Light yellow; delicate aromas of yellow pepper, grapefruit and jasmine. Medium-full with very good concentration. Beautiful complexity, as there is excellent varietal character that is understated. Very good acidity, notable persistence and impressive overall harmony, with lovely texture. Beautiful wine on its own or with lighter seafood, quiche or goat cheese. Enjoy over the next 2-5 years. Excellent
Rochioli Vineyard 2019 (Russian River Valley) – This is a limited production Sauvignon Blanc from one of the most highly sought after of all vineyards in the Russian River Valley. Bright, light yellow with slight petillance. Aromas of yellow pepper, freshly cut grass and Bosc pear. Medium-full with very good depth of fruit, slightly tangy acidity, excellent persistence and complexity. Very fine overall harmony, I love the balance as well as the subdued nature of this wine. Enjoy now and over the next 4 or 5 years. Outstanding