18 Of The Best Tequilas To Try Right Now

I have long been a devout whiskey and Cognac woman. But for the past few months—ever since multitudes of us have been quarantined at home—I’ve really opened my heart to tequila. (Not that I needed much convincing.)

I first visited the tequila distilleries in Jalisco in 2018 and the whole experience—from meeting the jimadors and maestro tequileros to eating pre-Hispanic Mexican delicacies—was profoundly glorious. These days, I find myself reminiscing about that trip endlessly. So whether I’m nursing a neat pour of extra añejo or shaking up a blanco in a cocktail recipe from Ivy Mix’s new book, tequila now regularly appears in the rotation of my nightly cocktail hour.

But as with most spirits, there’s always so much to learn. And the discovery process is neverending—as it is with everything in life, if you’re living it fully.

So I reached out to self-proclaimed “agave nerd” Janice Bailon, who is first and foremost an educator—in addition to being the founder of Fueled by Agave and a bartender at San Francisco’s Bourbon and Branch. I wanted (really, needed) more recommendations that go far beyond what’s available in my local liquor store—because even in New York City, offbeat options can be severely limited. And Bailon generously obliged.

“When I first came into this industry in 2001, tequila options were incredibly limited. What I consistently saw on the shelves were the big tequila guys of today: Jose Cuervo, Sauza, Hornitos, Herradura, and the later rising star Patron,” Bailon says. “These were my stepping stones into the agave world. Through my travels in Mexico I’ve come to experience the ritual of the process and the heart that goes into making this spirit…knowing history to me was a more authentic way to offer options to those I was serving. As my palate and the industry expanded, I’ve come to personally know some of the smaller producers—and I tend to lean towards them. Especially during these critical times, it is of utmost importance to support small producers. The United States is the largest importer of tequila allocating for over 80 percent of total worldwide export.”

Bailon’s deep dive into the world of tequila started when she began working at Tupelo in 2011, which was admittedly not exactly tequila-forward: “The amount of whiskey I consumed there started to hurt my body and I quickly pivoted to tequila (and soon turned my consumers to it as well),” Bailon continued. “I would pour tequilas side-by-side to understand the nuances in each and sling fresh watermelon margaritas like summer could never stop. Living in San Francisco, it would also be impossible for me not to give props to Julio Bermejo who has been an incredible guru of tequila to me. I am forever thankful for his friendship and knowledge. Through my journey from server to bartender, tequila was my beverage of choice. But it wasn’t until I joined the bar team at Devil’s Acre in the fall of 2015 that my palate really opened its guard to a new experience. There I met the gentlemen of Puro Burro: Darren Crawford and Eric Giardina, who opened my eyes to the mezcal world. So I went on a trip to Oaxaca in January 2016 and my life was forever changed. Eric and his team guided us through the palenques and sights of Oaxaca. Being immersed in the beauty and culture of Mexico, I was hooked. After that I made the decision to devote my life to the love of all things agave.”  

Here, Bailon listed her top picks of off-the-radar tequilas that soon-to-be enthusiasts should consider. The roster is a good mix of high and low—with one common denominator: excellent flavor.

“I wanted a list that was approachable for all ranges of pockets and palates—but that supports my ideals. Majority of these bottlings are still available and can be found in major markets, though harder to source in places like Ohio. I contacted bartenders in Georgia, Ohio, Chicago and Alabama as well to get a scope of what they have available,” Bailon says. “Living in San Francisco gives me a lot more variety than most markets and I wanted to stay cognizant of that fact. A hundred percent agave tequilana blue Weber being at the forefront of criteria. Because gold or oro tequilas can contain up to 49% of sugars that are not derived from agave, which is is more of a filler than tequila. I also take process and history in mind as well. There are different processes that companies can use to extract sugars (i.e. roller mill, tahona, diffuser), but diffuser-style tequilas seem a waste of eight to ten years. If it traditionally takes the agave that much time to grow, why not take the time to honor its growth with a process that slowly cooks rather than speeds it up with the potential use of hydrochloric acid? It seems a waste and a miss. Also: Over time, agave changes as it is terroir-driven and I’ve found certain years being better than others. This list takes availability into account and is more of a what is interesting and different in today’s tequila industry rather than an all-time hits list. Texture, nuances of taste, and salinity/acid levels are also taken into account.”

The Best Tequilas To Try Right Now

Los Arango Reposado ($49)

“This is one of the few tequila expressions that isn’t Jalisco based—Los Arango hails from Guanajuatom” Bailon says. “Flavors of light chamomile, ground black pepper, and a hint of condensed milk in its style of sweetness, it freshens up with alcohol in the back end—quickly cleaning up the palate to be ready for another sip.”

Fortaleza Reposado ($60)

“I’m a huge fan of Fortaleza and all they do,” Bailon says. “Guillermo’s family legacy shines through his brand bringing back the traditions of the process of his predecessors. I’ve always been a big fan of their blanco, but I’ve recently come to prefer their reposado. The light touch of caramel rounds out some of the citrus notes found in the blanco and allows me to drink more than I’d like to attest to. Sips of this feels like drinking a sunset.”

Gran Dovejo Añejo Cask Strength ($53)

“This limited Chicago release has me screaming dulce de leche! That and marzipan notes on the finish. Yet it holds on (heavily) to agave on the forefront,” Bailon says. “Being cask strength allows for these flavors to come out on a bigger platform. Where the Gran Dovejo Añejo retains a lot of these nuances as well, the cask strength just fires off at first sip.”

Espolón Blanco ($25)

“Let’s be honest, a lot of these picks are not always available and Espolón has become my go-to in those situations,” Bailon says. “Fair in price point and made of 100% agave, it’s an easy sipper with floral hints. Plus, I’m a sucker for a Batanga (tequila, Coke, lime, salt) from time to time. I prefer using Espolón for that. Creamy in the mouth and agave present.”

Siembra Valles Blanco ($53)

“David Suro has done a lot for the Tequila Industry, bringing not only stylistic differences in agave terroir to the forefront but also through his work as founder of the Tequila Exchange Program,” Bailon says. “Through Siembra Valles we get a taste of what valley-style tequila can be. It is wet earth and moss with a clean finish. The terrain of the valley contains different mineral qualities in comparison to agave grown in higher elevation, giving us a pleasant change from a highland heavy premium selection.”

G4 Blanco ($47)

“Frankenstein! Frankenstein! Frankenstein! That is the name of the mechanical tahona Felipe Camarena uses to crush his agave. So unique in its process, the flavors I derive from this expression are on par. Lemongrass and fresh cut sweet grass—with hints of clay. This is a fun expression that sets itself apart.”

Tequila Ocho Single Estate Agaves de Rancho Plata: Las Pomez ($43)

“Carlos Camerena and Tomas Estes make up the genius team behind Tequila Ocho,” Bailon says. “For those who approach agave as they do wine, this is the must-try brand. They feature single terroir agave in such a sincere way, switching plots every batch. Although I love the hints of macadamia nut in the 2019 El Bajío, I really fell in love with the Las Pomez. It’s the tropical fruit and pomelo combination that hooked me on this specific brand which carried into what I love about this brand as a whole. It brings back respect to the roots.”

Arette Blanco ($24)

“The Orandendain Family have been a well-respected family of producers for a long time,” Bailon says.  “For me, my first experience with Arette was in a Tommy’s-style margarita. But my first love of the brand came from waking up across the street from the distillery in the town of Tequila. Wafts of fresh cooked agave pouring through my window makes me instantaneously thirsty at the thought. Bright citrus notes and little lingering hint of celery leaf balances this lovely expression.”

El Tesoro Paradiso Extra Añejo ($130)

“I can never say no to this bottle. In fact, it’s rare to find me raving about extra añejos as I truly love the brightness and spirit one can find in a blanco style, but I truly love Paradiso,” Bailon says. “A five-year extra añejo style rested in ex-Cognac casks from start to finish, it is a beautiful expression of what is done right with aging. This expression plays with French oak to create creamy butterscotched agave with traces of char.”

Cazcanes No. 9 Blanco ($90)

“I love sitting at Julio Bermejo’s bar in San Francisco. Tommy’s is a tequila lover’s mecca and sitting in front of the legend himself is a priceless experience,” Bailon says. “The wealth of knowledge I inherit just listening at his bar is enough to drive anyone to my point of nerd-dom. It was here I tried Cazcanes for the first time. I remember the beautifully round body of this moment and sweet agave with light tickles of grapefruit.”

Fuenteseca Cosecha Blanco 2013 ($90)

“This blanco is a spiritual experience in a bottle. I get a sniff of Palo Santo on the nose which immediately transports me to the next level. Medium body and texture are thoroughly fulfilling with a clean and balanced finish.”

Tapatio Excelencia Gran Reserva Extra Añejo ($170 for 1 Liter)

“Stunning. Just without words stunning,” Bailon says. “Agave forward and oaked crème brulée is a unicorn to find—and when you do, it just dances up and down the palate. I also appreciate all the attention to detail with this bottle including a little rest in five-liter glass vessels before bottling. This is a precious gem to cherish.”

Calle 23 Criollo ($100)

“This is what I call my nerdy bottle that I can’t get enough of! I’m so in love,” Bailon says. “Criollo is a subset of the Blue Weber agave strain, which grows in the highlands of Jalisco. At full maturity the agaves grow small with high sugar levels. The flavor coming from this juice is off-the-charts bonkers good. The flavors develop in waves and is oily and heavy in mouthfeel. Nuances of mint and green, then cinnamon spice with a little oyster shell on the finish. This is definitely a complex and special expression. Plus, Sophie Decobecq is a scientific agave ‘G’ (gangster and genius) and deserves all the recognition as one of the very few female producers facing a male dominated industry.”

La Gritona Reposado ($25 for 375 ml)

“Vegetal and round, this is another female distilled expression which is easy on the pocket (and palate) to attain,” Bailon says. “Distilled by Melly Cardenas, they utilize recycled glass in some of the cutest packaging on the market. I discovered this brand during my time working at Cask in San Francisco and it has stayed a regular approachable favorite.”

Cascahuín Blanco ($32)

“I mean it’s Cascahuín. They do a stellar job with all their expressions. Salinity, papaya and silk minerality, I like sipping this in the backyard of Lost Resort in San Francisco. Super lengthy in finish, it’s a good afternoon porch chat.”

Tapatio 110 Blanco ($53 for 1 Liter)

“Big, bright and beautiful, Tapitio 110 is my cure to any sickness,” Bailon says. “At 110 proof you’d think it would light your face on fire, but in reality, it’s more like someone flashes a bright light in a dark room and you’re instantaneously awake and ready to go. It’s my favorite fuel when times are lagging and you need a pick-me-up. It’s a staple favorite of the Bourbon and Branch crew, needless to say I may have instigated that trend there.”

Don Fulano Añejo ($64)

“Velvety and lush, cinnamon and dried fruit perfection. I find myself sipping this fireside with the fluffiest of robes. It is one of my favorite nightcaps.”

Siete Leguas Reposado ($60)

“Another expression which has been a long time favorite. Sips of golden warmth balanced with subtle spice and ease. This tequila was first introduced to me as the tequila producers who originally helped make patron, I was hooked at first sip.”