Amarone And Valpolicella – Tedeschi Style

As with most Italian wine zones, family estates make up most of the production in Valpolicella, the famed wine territory not far from the city of Verona. One of the most noteworthy of the wine families here is Tedeschi, situated in the village of San Pietro in Cariano in the Valpolicella Classico district.

Riccardo Tedeschi is the winemaker here, always applying traditional cellar techniques, maturing the wines in large oak casks, while his sister Sabrina promotes the wines, serving as spokesperson for the winery. I’ve known her for almost a decade and have always enjoyed her easy-going personality, as well as her charm in communicating what her family’s wines are all about.

Of course, all the good will in the world doesn’t mean much if the wines aren’t any good, and it’s a pleasure to report that the Tedeschi wines are something rather special. There are at least three examples of Tedeschi Amarone currently produced (one more on the way); I’ll get to those very soon, but let’s begin with the various versions of Valpolicella produced at this estate.

Valolicella is a well-known Veronese red that is unfortunately, not held in the highest regards these days. The reason for that is simple, as many consumers, and even many in the trade, think of Valpolicella as little more than a light to medium-bodied red meant for consumption within two to three years of its vintage. Tedeschi does produce a Valpolicella in this manner – the name is Lucchine – and it is a pleasure to enjoy with lighter red meats and pastas.

But Valpolicella can be so much more than that; in fact, the best examples of Valpolicella Superiore (aged an extra year or more in wood before bottling); can age for at least a decade, and even a few years more from the best vintages. Tedeschi currently produces two excellent to outstanding examples of ageworthy Valpolicella Superiore; they are Maternigo and La Fabrisiera, named for the estates where the grapes are sourced from in the Valpolicella zone.

“By changing the vinification process, it’s possible to make such different wines,” Tedeschi remarks. “Among the Valpolicella range of wines, it’s possible to produce a different style. We can produce an easy-drinking wine, but by making a special selection in the vineyards, we can also make a Valpolicella of longer aging potential.”

It’s producers such as Tedeschi (as well as Ca’ La Bionda, a superb family estate nearby) that have made it their work to craft Valpolicella Superiore that are a step or two above the typical bottling, wines that offer greater complexity, with the structure for several years of cellaring. I’ve tasted the Tedeschi La Fabrisiera Valpolicella Superiore at ten years of age, and it was in great shape. As Valpolicella and Amarone are made with the same local varieties – the blend for each varies with each wine and each producer, and of course, the vinification process is quite different – it’s important to consider Valpolicella as much more than a simple red for immediate consumption. Add in the fact that even the finest Valpolicella Superiore from Tedeschi or other notable estates is much less costly than an Amarone, and you have a wine that is not only distinctive and quite special, but a fine value.

Of course, any estate in the Valpolicella area is evaluated by their examples of Amarone, and Tedeschi is a top-rated producer by anyone’s standards. What makes their various Amarone appealing, at least in my opinion, is their overall harmony. The very process of creating Amarone by the appassimento technique – air drying the grapes for four months before fermentation – often results in a powerhouse wine – we’re looking at 16%, 16.5% or sometimes even 17% alcohol – that results in a wine that lacks finesse and often, overall harmony.

Regarding Amarone, Tedeschi comments, “the soil is important, the selection of grapes is important, and the drying process is important.” She notes that with their particular work, they do not force the drying process, preferring to maintain a more natural method, which results in grapes are free of any mold. This in turn results in a wine of greater freshness as well as more varietal purity.

We don’t often equate Amarone with elegance and charm, but the Tedeschi style emphasizes these characteristics on a consistent basis. “With climate change, we are looking at reducing the natural sugar in the grapes,” Tedeschi says. It’s this approach, of making a more harmonious Amarone, starting with the vineyards, that makes the wines of Tedeschi so accomplished. “I think as a producer, we have to produce high quality wines in small volumes, because Amarone is not a wine for large volume, it’s not a commercial wine … we strive to keep the alcohol between 15% and 16%, the right alcohol content for Amarone.”

Notes on current releases of Valpolicella and Amarone from Tedeschi

Tedeschi Valpolicella Superiore “Capitel Nicalò” 2017 – Young, bright ruby red; aromas of dried cherry, sundried tomato and black peppercorn. Medium-bodied, this is ripe with distinct black spice notes, balanced acidity and good persistence. This is forward and relatively straightforward. Enjoy over the next 2-4 years. Very Good

Tedeschi Valpolicella Superiore “Maternigo” 2016 – Bright ruby red; aromas of roast coffee, marascino cherry and sage. Medium-full, this is ripe with medium-full tannins, good acidity, impressive persistence, well integrated wood notes and a distinct earthiness in the finish, displaying notes of brown herbs. Quite rich now, another year or two in the bottle will help round out this wine. Peak in 5-7 years, perhaps longer. Very Good to Excellent

Tedeschi Valpolicella Classico Superiore “La Fabrisiera” 2016 – Bright ruby red; heavenly aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate and purple orchid. Medium-full with excellent concentration; ideal ripeness, lovely complexity, elegant tannins and outstanding persistence. This is a very well made, expressive Valpolicella that should improve for 7-10 years. I love this wine! Outstanding

Tedeschi Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore “Capitel San Rocco” 2016 – Bright, deep young ruby red; aromas of fresh bing and marascino cherry; clove and charred meat. Medium-full, this is ripe and rich with medium-full tannins, good acidity, ample wood notes and a finish with distinct black spice and pepper notes. Give some time to settle down. Peak in 5-7 years. Very Good to Excellent

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva “La Fabrisiera” 2011 – Bright, deep ruby red; aromas of black cherry, baking chocolate and clove. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Rich mid-palate, excellent persistence, good acidity, well-integrated wood notes and medium-weight tannins. Approachable now, but best in 10-12 years. Excellent

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Monte Olmi 2013 – Deep ruby red; aromas of ripe marascino and black cherry, black orchid and cumin. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Rich mid-palate with layers of fruit. Young tannins that are well balanced, good acidity, very subtle wood notes, excellent persistence. Wonderful Amarone character, with admirable harmony, this is a baby. While this could be enjoyed with game or roast meats now, this will surely age beautifully, and be in peak drinking condition in 12-15 years. Superb