A New Experimental Whiskey From The Folks Who Make Pappy Van Winkle

Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, Kentucky is responsible for some of the most sought after whiskies on the planet. Connoisseurs covet the annual Antique Collection releases, which typically include a range of exceptional liquids from George T. Stagg, Eagle Rare, and Thomas H. Handy. Those in the ‘know’ fuss over W.L Weller and E.H. Taylor—lamenting how recent demand has caused prices to surge. And the entire planet seems to lust after Pappy Van Winkle. Indeed, even those who could hardly a name a single other bourbon are acutely aware of that legendary label.

All of these bottlings lean hard into traditions of American whisky production, stretching back centuries. For a sense of how Buffalo Trace is pushing the envelope into the future, however, you need to sip on its Experimental Collection. In May, the latest example hits shelves: a 12-year-old wheated bourbon that was proofed down in the barrel after 4 years of maturation.

“We’ve always known water was a necessary component in making whiskey,” says Master Distiller Harlen Wheatley, of the release. “This experiment helped us to understand how important a role water actually plays in whiskey production. The result of this experiment led us to a bourbon that is actually one of my favorite experiments.” 

Back in December of 2007, the wheat mash-derived distillate entered the cask at 114 proof. It was laid down in Warehouse C of the Buffalo Trace campus— a National Historic Landmark—where its next four years of life were rather uneventful. But then Wheatley returned to the scene in late 2011 carrying several buckets worth of spring water. He mingled it with the barreled whiskey, reducing its proof to an even 100 (50% alcohol by volume).

The straight bourbon was then left to rest inside the charred white oak until March 4th, of this year when it was dumped and bottled at 90 proof. Watering down whiskey is standard practice after aging is complete. But purposefully introducing it during maturation is entirely unconventional.

The resulting product carries sweet and floral aromas in its nose. The biggest impact of the experimentation is perhaps perceived in its creamy mouthfeel—an ideal platform on which to balance notes of honey and barrel spice. For lovers of Pappy Van Winkle—as well as WL Weller—its worth noting that this liquid was born from the same ‘wheated’ mashbill responsible for both of those revered classics. Though, fans of each hardly need to be reminded of that.

Packaged at 375ml, the bottles will retail at $47 this May. But remember, it’s all coming from just a single cask. There will not be much of it to go around. So if you spot the label (shown below) on a shelf near you, do not hesitate to lift it up.

The Experimental Collection was launched back in 2006. Since then the program has grown to encompass 23 separate releases. Buffalo Trace currently maintains over 25,000 barrels of experimental whiskey scattered across its various Frankfort warehouses. In fact, the distillery even maintains the aptly-named Warehouse X, specifically to study ways in which environmental factors can impact flavor. Other entries into the series have tapped into how unconventional mash bills, wood types or even stave toastings can influence end product.

Buffalo Trace is doing its best to show that tradition and innovation don’t have to be mutually exclusive. You’ll find barrels of both laying side by side in Frankfort, Kentucky.