Wine Vertical Spanning Four Decades Of Top Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux Estate

The First Classifed Growth (1er Grand Cru Classé), Château Troplong Mondot has an impressive terroir with vineyards on one of the highest elevations in Saint–Émilion in Bordeaux with a topsoil of clay that has layers of limestone underneath with flint and stones throughout. The recently appointed CEO, Aymeric de Gironde, who started the position at Troplong Mondot towards the end of 2017, came to New York City a couple months ago to discuss their plans for the future as well as to showcase the newest vintage, 2018, which will be officially released in 2021, with a vertical to span four decades in tow.

Aymeric de Gironde

Aymeric de Gironde has been involved in the French luxury wine market for a couple of decades. Originally from the Cognac area, north of Bordeaux, Aymeric attended the International Program of the Bordeaux Business School and upon his graduation he was required to fulfill his military service; at the time he was given two choices, to go into the actual French military or work for a French company abroad to serve his country. Once he found out that he would be working for the Cognac company Hennessey, part of LVMH (Moët Hennessy – Louis Vuitton SE), in New York City, it became a very easy decision as he laughed, “Oh course I was going to work for Hennessey in New York!” During his time with LVMH he eventually took an important role overseeing the business development of the venerable Champagne house Krug.

Then one day he met the ever-charismatic Christian Seely, managing director of AXA Millésimes, which runs a handful of esteemed estates with Château Pichon Baron being the crown jewel and Aymeric took an opportunity to go back to Bordeaux working for AXA Millésimes. Aymeric expressed how wonderful it was working with the grand estate Château Pichon Baron and that it is truly Christian Seely’s love; Aymeric himself envisioned one day that he would find that same passion for an estate he could manage such as Christian found with Pichon Baron. Then an opportunity to become managing director of a ‘super second’ in the Médoc, Château Cos d’Estournel, to assist in elevating it to an even higher perceived status was too great for Aymeric to pass up until finally arriving at Troplong Mondot – moving from the Left Bank to the Right Bank of the Bordeaux wine region. Aymeric has finally found his ideal combination of working for a big company (Troplong Mondot was bought by SCOR in the summer of 2017) that offers a wide range of resources combined with a devotion to one specific vineyard, 64 acres (26 hectares) in Saint–Émilion; Aymeric also noted that at the age of 47 he wanted to find his love and stay there for the rest of his career, and he says that love is Troplong Mondot. 

2018

The 2018 vintage is Aymeric’s first with Troplong Mondot and with such an impressive professional history, many were expecting him to make a slight statement with this vintage – well he certainly over-delivered with making a statement. In 2018, Troplong Mondot was the first to harvest grapes in Saint–Émilion picking a week earlier than everyone else. This was quite shocking as Troplong Mondot, which is higher in elevation than most vineyards in the area, typically picked last which made sense when the climate was just at the borderline of achieving ripeness in the grapes, but average temperatures have increased throughout the decades and so the wine became legendary for its big, highly concentrated style as the temperature crept up through the years.

Aymeric said that they began to harvest 70% of the vineyards on September 7th and it took a little over a week to finish yet they waited to pick the Cabernet Sauvignon a month later which makes up 13% of the 2018 blend. Also, Aymeric implemented no de-leafing on the vines because he wanted to keep the full canopy to protect the grapes from over-ripening in the sun as well as putting off any addition of sulfur dioxide (SO2) until after fermentation when the wine was in barrel. He admitted that waiting on the SO2 was quite “scary” as the wine might have oxidized, but he lucked out with achieving his goal which was to bring out more natural aromatics and purity of fruit.

The 2018 Bordeaux vintage is being compared to the rich, ripe 2009 yet it is considered better by some for having more structure; surprisingly, the 2018 Troplong Mondot still delivers on plenty of juicy fruit with no hint of green tannin and a purity and energy that is at its core, and so it is a stand out in this vintage for its energy.

Vertical of Château Troplong Mondot

Troplong Mondot has been known as a decadent Saint–Émilion wine that never seemed too heavy and it delighted many a Bordeaux wine drinker for that reason. The wine really came into prominence during the 1990s with the 1998 being an outstanding example and was one of the wines that was tasted in the vertical (notes below) with other vintages such as 2001 and a nice surprise from 2004 really finding their sweet spots right now; and of course the 2005, 2009 and 2010 were all outstanding yet the ‘09 and ‘10 could use more time. But it is the 2018 that does jump out with its vitality and its immaculate fruit expression while still giving a lush quality that is irresistible.

For the future, Aymeric is going to keep pushing the envelope and giving his winery staff at Troplong Mondot the means to do so. He bought Austrian oak barrels from Stockinger – a well-respected, artisan cooper that is run by a father and son – as the barrels are made in a way that leaves no mark on the wine so the fruit may truly express itself as well as lowering their overall use of new oak from 95% to 60%; excitingly he recently purchased an amphorae, clay vessel, to experiment but he doesn’t know if they will use it in the blend for Troplong Mondot.

As Aymeric sat back at the head of the long table in Troplong Mondot’s “NYC home away from home” where he held this grand vertical, he beamed with a smile saying how happy he was to be back in New York City– the place that started him on this path. But this time he comes back as the CEO of an illustrious estate that he knows can offer more in the future, and he wants to unlock its potential, this time he comes back finally finding his home.

The following vertical of Château Troplong Mondot took place on October 24^th, 2019 in New York City. Only 2018 has a detailed tasting note and the rest of the vintages will have a few descriptors that highlight what made that vintage different as well as those wines served from magnum being noted. Two vintages of the second wine Mondot are also listed at the bottom.

 2018 (85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc): The 2018 was singing, which is impressive as it still needs to age for a couple more years before it is released into the market. Cassis with layers of black raspberries and blueberries that had notes of sweet tobacco and cardamom spice and freshly sliced black truffles that came in with a lush texture but was lifted with electric energy on the long, aromatic, pure finish.

2017 (85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc): Dominant smoky minerality with lots of structure and fruit on the finish.

2016 (85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc): Tight grip to the tannins with notes of up-heaved earth and graphite; closed at this stage.

2015 (92% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc): Pretty and seductive with warming fruit.

2014 (91% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc): Savory with a wild quality and dark, brooding character.

2013 (90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc): Dried herbs with a multi-layered texture – took time to open.

2012 (90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc): Linear and focused with a savage quality that was thrilling.

2011 (89% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc): Right off the bat had a lifted mint-y note with smoldering cedar notes and a broad body.

2010 (88% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc): Big structure with bright acidity and baking spices with an exotic incense note; needs a lot more time.

2009 (86% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Cabernet Franc): Dark chocolate with hints of curry spices and real weight yet still felt as if it danced on the palate.

2006 (90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc): Intensely herbaceous with black currant and soft tannins.

2005 (90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc): Great balance to this 2005 with ideal amount of richness of pretty fruit with added complex notes of grilled herbs.

2004 (80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc): Did not expect the 2004 to be one of the favorites but it was in a right stage with an ideal balance of decadence represented by chocolate covered cherries with floral and mineral notes and the tannins are completely integrated.

2002 (85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon – not specified): The 2002 had much more of an outer structure on the palate and less missing mid-palate weight with notes of forest floor and dusty earth.

2001 (85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon – not specified): The 2001 seems like it is at the perfect stage for those that still want fruit (juicy black cherry) with classic graphite and cigar box aromas intermixed with exotic spice; sensuous and ethereal at the same time; a favorite of the tasting.

2000 (85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon – not specified): Great, intense nose with wild flowers and toasty oak that lessened in intensity on the palate.

1999 (85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon – not specified): Chewy tannins with fresh fruit and wet stone aromas.

1998 (85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon – not specified): Another favorite besides the 2001 and 2004 with a beautiful perfume that had delicious flavors of licorice and boysenberry compote that had an exquisite texture.

1989 (85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc) Served from Magnum. Broad and juicy with mint and rosebud oil that had a fresh fruit finish.

1986 (65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon – not specified) Served from Magnum. Bruised fruit with dried mushroom and leather notes.

1983 (65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon – not specified) Served from Magnum. Wet earth, smoke and mocha with fine tannins.

Mondot

2016 (100% Merlot): Incredibly delicious and singing with notes of lilacs and a bouquet of fresh fruit flavors; it over-delivered on both the nose and palate with a real zing of freshness on the finish that had a fierce minerality to it.

2015 (92% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc): Dried leaves with blackberries and grip with noticeable tannins that open on the finish with black pepper and smoky minerality.