This is a staple on every whisky geek’s calendar.
Drinks giant Diageo has announced its 2019 Special Releases. The ‘Rare by Nature’ collection consists of eight cask strength single malt Scotch whiskies picked from stocks of both well-known and lesser-spotted Diageo whisky distilleries, selected by master blender Dr. Craig Wilson.
The result are whiskies that are unusual in profile to what you can typically expect from their corresponding distilleries, offering unique flavors, and the chance to try some truly experimental releases.
Bottles looking pretty at the Special Releases launch.
Morgan Hill-Murphy
This year, the collection is now united visually with packaging that celebrates the surroundings and natural history of the distilleries. Notably, it is once again missing a release from the closed Port Ellen distillery, and I had my suspicions confirmed when one of Diageo’s brand ambassadors stated that Port Ellen was unlikely to feature here for a while (Port Ellen was always included when the Special Releases were first introduced up until 2017, though now is going through a large-scale rehabilitation project).
The whiskies themselves will soon be made available at specialist retailers worldwide, and range in price from $110 to $1,950 (price converted from the official suggested retail price for pounds, so it might be different in the shops).
I had the chance to try them all, so here’s my impressions of this year’s crop.
But first, here’s a guide to my scoring system. I grade whiskies out of 10 to the nearest half-point:
0-4 – Avoid this bottle
5/5.5 – Barely passable
6/6.5 – Decent enough, not really for me, but you might like it.
7/7.5 – Good
8/8.5 – Extremely good
9-10 – Absolutely superb
The whiskies are listed in alphabetical order:
Cardhu 14 Year Old – $155, 55.0% ABV
Description: This one went through a lengthy amount of maturation, two years, in Amontillado Sherry-seasoned casks.
Nose: A soft combination of grapes and heather, though there’s a grassy tang in there too.
Taste: Light pastry dough combines with fruit, scones spread with strawberry jam. A rich milk chocolate texture and flavor also shines through, finished at the end with a malty coffee aftertaste, maybe closer to chicory coffee than the real thing. And of course there’s the usual toffee notes that sherry maturation brings to the table.
Overall: This Cardhu just wants to cuddle with you. 7.5
Cragganmore 12 Year Old – $110, 58.4% ABV
Description: A smoked Cragganmore! Whatever will they think of next? This is the first smoked whisky released by this distillery to my knowledge.
Nose: Bananas and butter, but there’s also some basil to provide an herbal dimension. But it’s the light wisp of smoke, lending visions of smoked ham or even a British sausage roll, that makes this really shine.
Taste: Really enjoyed the texture and freshness. Honeyed butter, fudge, and roasted tomatoes lead to a finish reminiscent of a paneer cheese curry.
Overall: Lots of unusual things come together in a cohesive package. 7.5
Dalwhinnie 30 Year Old – $645, 54.7% ABV
Description: This is a marriage of refill hogsheads and butt casks, but from a brief period when Dalwhinnie wasn’t using worm tubs, a type of condenser that adds heavier flavors.
Nose: The initial lemon tart hit descends into pears, passion fruit, before going further into an aromatic herb garden of mint and rosemary.
Taste: Immense sugars across many fronts. Marzipan, tangy candy, but with a return of the rosemary as well as a Turkish delight layer.
Overall: This one fades fast for me, but it’s a Willy Wonka candy explosion while it’s around. 8
Lagavulin 12 Year Old – $145, 56.5% ABV
Description: A younger Lagavulin, in refill American oak casks.
Nose: Fresh fried plantains, soft fresh mild cheese, and that Lagavulin dirty smoke.
Taste: Very vegetal. While mangoes and sweet potatoes provide the sweetness, roated peppers and eggplant add something more umami-like before we descend into phenolic depths of bonfires and smoked trout.
Overall: Lagavulin, now with an exotic Latin twist. 8
Mortlach 26 Year Old – $1,950, 53.3% ABV
Description: Powerful and heavy whisky matured in first fill Pedro Ximenez/Oloroso-seasoned casks (have a look here to see what that ‘seasoning’ word means, it’s important. Credit to Diageo for making it clear as not all brands are transparent about it.)
Nose: Sandalwood, meat, and cranberries. A beef goulash served in an incense-filled church.
Taste: Incredibly thick and oily. All the sherry dark fruits are bursting through, along with a medicinal taste of cherry Tylenol and pine needles, with a wonderful hit of leather.
Overall: Mortlach at it’s gutpunching finest. 9
Pittyvaich 29 Year Old – $425, 51.4% ABV
Description: This older whisky, from a lesser-known distillery, went through an additional maturation of combined Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez casks.
Nose: A wrestling match on a caramel mat between apples and pears on one side, and nutmeg and cinnamon on the other.
Taste: Dark chocolate, cloves, and plums, but there’s a leathery aftertaste there too, though much softer than the Mortlach.
Overall: Rich and full bodied while managing to stay gentle. Where the Mortlach is a bit more unbalanced, this one has a somewhat similar profile but is more in control. Some people will definitely prefer that. 8
Singleton (Glen Ord) 18 Year Old – $170, 55.0% ABV
Description: Singleton is a brand that features single malt released from three different distilleries, this one is from Glen Ord and matured in freshly charred American hogsheads.
Nose: Floral and citric with a slight whiff of cocoa butter sneaking in along with wood shavings.
Taste: Really fresh and summery, strawberries and cream.
Overall: Springy, but fades fast. 6.5
Talisker 15 Year Old – $145, 57.3% ABV
Description: This is apparently the first ever official release of a 15 year old Talisker, also matured in freshly charred American hogsheads. It’s going to be radically different to the last whisky though.
Nose: Very, very rich. Mushroom soup, the Talisker pepper, and smoked salmon.
Taste: Meaty and fishy at the same time, bacon and smoked salmon. The salt and coastal elements come through wonderfully, but the combination of spice and fruit here approach something closer to Caribbean jerk sauce.
Overall: It’s not often I find such a clear combination of smoked fish and meat. 8.5