It’s definitely going that direction at one estate vineyard in Washington state wine country.
At Hedges Family Estate in the renowned Red Mountain AVA, the move to biodynamic grape growing practices in 2009 was something that just felt natural to the tight team running this ground-breaking winery.
Hedges Family Estate uses biodynamic grape growing techniques in its vineyards in Washington state’s Red Mountain AVA.
Leslie Kelly
Beyond Organic
There’s no denying that organically grown crops have moved from the fringe smack into the mainstream over the past decade. The principles of biodynamic farming take the organic model a few steps beyond the traditional nixing of pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Among the requirements of the Demeter Biodynamic Association’s Charter:
- Biodiversity on the farm is encouraged, in an effort to limit imported materials. At Hedges Family Estate, they keep turkeys and chickens and have a robust culinary garden that attracts beneficial bugs.
- Weed control involves prevention through mulching and growing cover crops that discourage invasive species.
- Compost preparations used in the vineyards involve burying cow horns with fresh manure, allowing time for it to break down and create nutrient rich soil.
The principles laid out by biodynamic farming’s founding father Dr. Rudolf Steiner — also the founder of Waldorf School —are based on the belief that farms should be viewed as self-contained, self-sustaining organisms. An updated point of view suggests this approach cuts down on greenhouse gases and is especially beneficial in the face of climate change.
Hedges Family Estates was founded in 1986 by Tom Hedges, and his wife, Ann-Marie. The operation moved to biodynamic farming in 2009.
Leslie Kelly
The backstory
Hedges was launched in 1986 as a bit of an experiment. Founder Tom Hedges and his wife, Ann-Marie Liégeois, had traveled the globe extensively while Tom worked in the produce business. Early efforts went into exporting wine as a wholesaler, with Sweden becoming the winery’s first big customer.
By the late 1980s, the family bought 50 acres on Red Mountain, planted various Bordeaux varietals and began winning awards and recognition for its estate wines. When daughter, Sarah Goedhart joined the winemaking team in 2006, she and her brother began to advocate for moving to biodynamic farming.
Her brother, Christophe — the winery’s director of national sales and marketing — said consumers are increasingly seeking out certified biodynamic producers: “Wine is first and foremost nature’s cocktail, and in order to authenticate the virtues of such a natural product, certification is necessary.”
Sarah Goedhart is the winemaker for Hedges Family Estate in Washington state’s Red Mountain AVA.
Hedges Family Estate
Added benefits
Winemaker Sarah Goedhart said she was drawn to biodynamic farming because it’s not only easier on the planet, it’s also easier on the farm workers tending the vineyards and harvesting the grapes by hand.
“We feel like it’s important to give our workers more of a chance for good health,” Goedhart said. “We’re one farm and one property, but it’s our responsibility to show it can be done.”
Hedges Family Estate wine is certified biodynamic by the Demeter Association.
Leslie Kelly
Taste the difference?
Ideally, this natural approach to grape growing leads to a final product that’s a true expression of the place where it’s grown, the terrior. No commercial yeast is added during fermentation, which requires more attention.
“Does it make better wine? I’m not sure,” said Goedhart. “It’s not a formula, even for the winemaker, it changes every year, depending on the growing conditions. It definitely makes for a more interesting wine.”
Current releases include Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and red blends.